Tag: Activewear

DIY Spring Sportswear Capsule

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At the beginning of the year, I made a promise to myself to get more physical activity into my life. Working from home is absolutely wonderful for its flexibility and the fact that I could work in my pajamas all day.  However, it can easily become the norm and the motivation to leave really drops low…especially when you sit behind the sewing machine for a good part of the day.  So, I started to take Zumba classes at a local studio and really love the energy of the people and how they keep me motivated to keep coming.  Since I go a few times a week, I’ve quickly realized how dated and worn out my sportswear was.

Fabric

To keep up with all the jumping, squats and salsa moves, I was in desperate need of just about all workout clothing.  I figured I could make a whole capsule to mix and match with my current gear.  I’m fortunate to have my friends at Pine Crest Fabrics help me in my quest.  They just launched several lines of new performance fabrics and I got to try out two of them.

First up is this new luxury line of Textured Web Spandex available in five different colors.  I chose the Mint colorway since I don’t have any green in my workout wear.  (I swear I initially wasn’t drawn to the Philadelphia Eagles’ color combo!)  This nylon/poly/spandex blend consists of a base fabric (you can see that this one is actually turquoise) and then there is another layer of the web netting overtop — which makes it come off much more green.  I was really shocked to see the turquoise on the backside of this fabric!

With the Textured Web Spandex having two layers, its a bit heavier at 350gsm (around 10oz per sq yard) and makes it absolutely perfect for that compression feel.  I want certain things to stay put as I workout 😉  With four-way stretch, this fabric is incredibly comfortable and very soft to the touch.

I paired the Mint Web with Pine Crest’s Valor line of recycled performance fabrics in Black.  What’s really special about this fabric is that it’s made with Repreve fibers — which are created with recycled plastic bottles.  I was surprised to see that 88% of this fabric comes from Repreve.  Many times companies tout how they are using recycled material and it turns out to be a minor component…but 88% is huge!  As I make more sportswear, I’m so happy to see this is an option.

The best part is that it feels just like the other Pine Crest fabrics I’ve used before (Viper and Olympus base cloths.)  It is 260 gsm (around 7.5 oz per sq yard) and is more of your typical weight in performance fabrics.

Patterns

When I was planning out the pieces of my capsule, I knew I wanted some good leggings and a sports bra designed specifically for physical activity and not just for loungewear.  I definitely wanted the “ath” and not the “leisure” when picking out patterns.  I went to Greenstyle Creations for their sewing patterns and became a member of their Facebook group.  After joining, I quickly found out the members were definitely working out in their makes and I felt very comfortable purchasing their products.

I first sewed up the Stride Athletic Tights with my new Juki coverstitch and serger.  While I love my new leggings, the process to learn my coverstitch machine was loooongggg.  (I’ll save my thoughts on it for a separate post.)  This pattern can be sewn on a regular machine and I highly suggest joining the FB group so you can see all the incredible examples which only use a standard sewing machine — It can be done!

Based on my measurements, I am a medium in the hips (40″)  and fall between a small and medium in the waist (28 1/2″.)  I cut a medium, and then cut the waistband right between the small and medium pattern lines.  Since I made the high-waisted version, I would grade to a small at the top of the waistband since my body narrows out even more there.

With the regular length inseam being 29″ and me being a 5’3″ shortie, I knew I had to shorten the pattern from the start by 1 1/2.”  I like my leggings to hit right above my ankle and just don’t like the bunching from RTW versions that are generally too long for me.  I used the shorten/lengthen line to adjust and then had to hem the tights another 2 1/2″ after finishing them.

Even though I skipped the muslin, I would suggest you make one if you are newer to performance fabrics.  I did switch up the order of assembling the Strides, however, so the last seams sewn would be the inseam and waistband.  I machine basted those seams for fit and saw a little bunching under my backside (and yes, I did pop a few stitches but was still able to see fit.)  The bunching told me to let out a little ease through the inseam and I sewed it at 1/4″ vs 3/8″ as directed.  That little bit helped smooth out the back wrinkles perfectly.

What I love about this pattern are the generous side pockets for your phone/music/keys and the inclusion of extra elastic inside the waistband.  This helps the waistband, and thus the leggings, from falling down.  Some people from the FB group use power mesh inside and that’s something I’d like to try out with the next pair.

The other pattern I picked up from Greenstyle is the Power Sports Bra.  This is a soft sports bra with a ton of different options, including racerback, adjustable straps, back closure and can be nursing friendly!  I love the double criss-cross back and went with that version along with the 2″ wide elastic band since it’s what I had on-hand.

Normally, I wear 34/36 B in underwire bras but made a 32 band and a C-cup.  Trust me….I read the sizing chart and didn’t think this was right.  I thought I would move more toward an A-cup than a C.  But again, I went back to the FB group to search sizing posts and there was a post about someone else not believing the sizing chart (and she had a 3-4 cup difference!!)  She followed it and had a bra that fit.  So, I put my full trust in the designer and went ahead making the bra (since I wasn’t going to make a muslin….see the bad habit here, friends???)

The only adjustment I made was shortening 1″ off of both longer straps.  The short ones didn’t need it.  This Power Sports Bra has a great fit and it holds well for light-medium activity.  I feel very secure in it, and that may also be due to the heavier Textured Web Spandex.  The FB group did mention that you may want to use power mesh as part of the center if you want more hold.  I’ll try that out to see the difference….since I will definitely be making more of these.  I think the U-back is next 😉

The last piece of the capsule is the Rumi Tank by Christine Haynes.  This is one of my TNT (tried ‘n true) patterns and have been wanting to make a workout version of it with the great racerback.  You can check out my other jersey knit versions here and here.  With this version, however, I used the Textured Web Spandex on the front and then the Valor on the back for a fun color-blocking look.

I made a size 6 and grade out to 8 in the hip and usually use the size 8 length.  Since I have to lift my arms a lot in Zumba class, I extended this length an additional 2 1/4″, but also made a 1.5″ hem (for extra weight to stay down).  I also increased the neckline up by 1/2″ to cover up the ladies as I move through squat and lunging motions.  I’m pleased with these adjustments to keep things a bit more modest and like a good TNT pattern, I love how it turned out!

I hope you are inspired to make some of your own workout wear.  It’s an amazing difference to have something that actually fits through so much activity and you’re not constantly tugging at the waist or having sore breasts.  Fabric that breathes and keeps you comfortable is also key!

 

Get that workout on!

-Cristy

 

Project Summary:

 

 

Fabric for this post was provided by Pine Crest Fabrics.  All sewing patterns and notions were purchased by myself.  As always, I keep it straight with you.  All comments and opinions are my own.  There are affiliate links in the Project Summary for which your purchases help to maintain this website.  As always, THANK YOU for your support!

 

Make Welt Zipper Pockets with the Skye Joggers

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Skye joggers by Love You Sew

When joggers hit the market a few years ago. I was definitely into the look. They had the feel of my old Champion sweats from back in the day. (You know, the ones with the elastic ankle and all!) However, it seemed that the trend was not really feeling me. I tried on a few RTW pairs and have even sewn a few patterns. But, I didn’t like how they clung to my thighs and calves. I mean if I want leggings, I’ll just wear leggings….and that’s what I did.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Since then, I’ve seen so many more joggers on the street and figured out I was into the more menswear style – which are a little looser and fit that ol’ sweatpant nostalgia, I remember. Fortunately, I’ve made the Skye Joggers by Blank Slate Patterns before and knew exactly the changes I wanted to make to get my perfect pants.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Fabric

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

When I made my very first Skye Joggers, I knew they were going to be a wearable muslin. So, I used whatever knit I had on-hand…which was a lightweight modal (definitely not on the recommended fabrics list.) They stretch out so much around the knees that I just wear them at home.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew
I tried to push the ankles up to hide the knees…Ha!

As with any muslin, lessons are learned. I knew I wanted a heavier knit and “athletic” fabric that looked like the RTW versions on my Pinterest board here. Either a ponte or scuba would work and I decided on ponte. I’ve worked with it before like on this Denver Tunic and love the weight and recovery. I grabbed this great dark grey Ponte de Roma Viscose Blend from Imagine Gnats awhile ago and the Arietta Navy Ponte from Craft South while on a trip. But you can still grab some of the Arietta from Etsy here.

Sizing

Based on the muslin, I wanted just a bit more ease and sized up a step. I coach sports for my boys and want a bit more movement (aka air circulation) with my joggers. One can only wear leggings for so long!

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Additionally, I widened the knee and calves by drawing a straight line front the shorten/lengthen line all the way down to the ankle. I have heavy calves (and don’t fit into most boots as a result,) but I know I can adjust when I sew. I almost always have to make this adjustment on pants patterns, but left it pretty simple since I was working with this heavy ponte.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

These are another pair of Skye Joggers I made with the same sizing adjustments. You can see the extra ease allover, and especially in the knees and calves where the fabric is not pulled.

I happen to make these before the #SewFancyPants challenge and felt like they were a bit too safe and boring (perfect for coaching basketball though!)

Welt Pocket Tutorial

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

With the new year and planning out my projects, these were the only additional pants on my docket. But when the #SewFancyPants challenge came across my Instagram, I knew I wanted to participate somehow. I decided to stick to my plans since I already had all of my fabric. With the ease I added into my joggers, they were definitely looking more like the men’s versions I’ve seen (and absolutely love!) I figured I would go all the way and make these even more masculine by hacking the slash pockets to make some pretty dope welt zipper ones.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

To make welt pockets, you first have to bring up the lines of the front pant pattern’s pocket area to match the side seam and waistline. To do this, lay the pocket pattern right on top of the front leg (as shown) and cut out the fabric following your new combined pattern.

With this change, you will no longer need the front facing pattern piece and instead, will need four of the pockets. To make things much easier on myself (and after some tough lessons learned before,) I used a quilt cotton to make the welt pocket opening. This allows for more stability and less bulk…especially when working with a heavy knit. For the back of the pockets, I then went back to the ponte.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

1. For the zipper opening, I used a 7″ sport style nylon zipper like this one. The pockets are very generous with the Skyes and I wanted to make sure my hands and phone could fit through easily. (No one likes those little zip pockets that can only fit a tube of Chapstick!) For the placement, I literally clipped the pocket pattern to pants I was already wearing to see where my hand naturally would go. I made sure to place it far enough down to account for seam allowance. Then I drew and cut out a 7″ x 1/2″ rectangle exactly where I wanted the zipper to go.

2. On the wrong side of the front pant leg, I marked the zipper box using the pocket pattern and then fused a 8″ x 1″ pieces of knit interfacing overtop of the zipper markings.

3. With right sides facing together, lay the front pocket lining against the front pant. Pin in place. Mark the zipper opening to the wrong side of the pocket lining and stitch around the entire rectangle. Draw a line down the center of the rectangle (as shown) leaving 1/2″ at the beginning and end between the line and the sewn box. Draw two V’s to connect each corner to the center line (as shown.)

4. Cut along the red lines and use small scissors to get as close into the corners as possible without cutting any threads.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

5. Remove pins. Take the pocket and push it all through the zipper opening and finger-press the seams down.

6. Press the inside of the zipper opening while rolling a bit of the ponte inward.

7. Press the outside of the zipper opening making sure you don’t see the lining.

8. Using some Wonder Tape (or a fine line of washable fabric glue,) line the zipper opening as shown on the pocket. Remove the backing from the tape.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

9. With right side of the pant up, center the zipper opening over the zipper. Make sure the zipper opens downward. Finger press around the zipper opening to attach the zipper to the pocket. Use extra pins as needed. Top-stitch 1/8″ around the zipper opening through the pant front, pocket and zipper.

10. Flip joggers to the wrong side to make sure you got through all the layers. Trim threads

11. Line up the back of the pocket lining to the front lining and pin only the pockets together. At this point, I decided to curve the pockets since I was going to serge them together. This would eliminate the extra bulk a corner would give me. I used a ruler to draw the arc, but you could also use a bowl.

12. Since I was using a serger, I measured in my 1/2″ seam allowance to give me a guide as I ran the pocket through my machine. Serge or sew the pocket linings together, making sure to push back the pant front.

Take a step back and check out the off-the-rack look of that zipper!

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

Piping

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

If I was gonna add welt pockets with some sporty zippers, I had to keep going and add some contrast piping to these Skyes 😉 Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any black stretch piping under 10 yds that would also deliver within a week. (Why is everything I need overseas???) I could find every other color, except for basic black – go figure. So, instead I used woven bias tape piping straight out of the package like this one. The piping balances out all of the black accents and makes these look so professional….but I did have some help…

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

With regular piping, I could use my zipper foot to attach it with a straight stitch, but I wanted a stretch stitch given the ponte. Plus, all of these layers definitely needed to be overlocked. I didn’t have the right foot with any of my machines to do a zig-zag or overlooking stitch with piping, so I got this new foot for my Juki Serger. As seen above, my regular foot is to the left and the piping foot is to the right. There is a channel that allows the piping to move through and now I can serge everything!

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

This piping foot was amazing! It allowed for a tight and even application. I’ve sewn piping on garments before like these Laure dresses, but sometimes I have to go in to sew twice for an even seam. This foot was flawless. Guess you’ll be seeing more piping from me!

My Real Inspo

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

I didn’t even realize it until my son helped me with taking pictures, but he pretty much has the same jogger that I was trying to create. I must’ve been channeling his pants within my subconscious this whole time! Now we can “twin” in our gear together.

I hope you enjoy the welt pocket tutorial! Please let me know if you have any questions or additional thoughts in the Comments section below.

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

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