Appaloosa Bag – Pattern Review

A few months ago, I had the amazing opportunity of taking one of Sara Lawson’s bag-making classes…at my local quilt shop!  I’ve been trying to attend one of her retreats for awhile and was so glad she came to Columbus. Sara designs some pretty fantastic bags and accessories through her business, Sew Sweetness.  The Aeroplane bag was one of my first names and you can read about it here.

We have worked together in the past and I have a few guest posts on her blog.  There is one from Purse-Palooza which you can read about here.  I also wrote a review on a Craftsy Tailoring class which you can read about here. Sara is such a sweet and humble person but she’s such a rockstar to us bagineers!

I have to admit, the Appaloosa bag (aff link) would not have been my choice for a class with Sara.  But I completely understand the bag we make has to be done in the time allotted, which was about 6 hrs.  However, I found it as my own personal challenge to try to make this pattern, more “me.”

I used a light weight black denim by Robert Kaufman as my main fabric with Carolyn Friedlander’s Euclid as the lining.  This would keep the bag modern and pretty versatile with any wardrobe.  And since I was using the black denim, I made sure to use black Soft and Stable in the construction of the bag.  Otherwise, you run the risk of the natural colored foam peeking though the needle holes.

With the black denim being pretty plain, I just had to do a little bag quilting. (You know me!) I took some inspiration from current Rebecca Minkoff bags to try to pull off something very modern and on-trend.  With the pattern calling for all of the Soft and Stable, I knew the texture would be perfect on this bag.  I made a simple herringbone design using my favorite Chalk-pencil.  You can still see the marks on the picture above.  The lines just erase right off when you are finished.

Like most other quilting, I made sure to use my walking foot and created long thread tails to hide later on.  I used all Gutermann polyester thread.

I used rivets all around the border of the flap to add the extra “edge” on this bag.  Initially, I was going to use nickel hardware (because that’s what I had on-hand,) but Sara helped me decide on the gunmetal and just wait to finish my bag later.  Yeah…that was a pretty good decision.

The slider and rectangle rings were quickly ordered and boy…do they make the bag.  🙂  The gunmetal really works with the feel I was going for with this bag.

So….of course, I added a few extra rivets around to balance out the front flap.  Also, I made two strap extenders instead of just one.  After having the bag sit around waiting for the hardware, I thought I would use this more as a cross-body than an under-the-arm bag.  It just works more with my lifestyle with active young kids.

Having Sara around to instruct and so many nice bagineers to assist, the Appaloosa came together so quickly.  We definitely didn’t need the full 6 hours at all.  The most challenging part was just sewing through all the layers of the front accordion pockets to the sides of the bag.  I would definitely recommend some large needles and to hand-crank it if needed.

I love the multiple pockets in the front of the bag…and there is still another zip pocket in the main compartment.  Since I used a metal zipper, I did run into the issue of having to shorten and adjust the one had even though it was a 9″ as called for in the pattern.

The back of the Appaloosa is nice and smooth.  With all the pockets on the front, you really don’t need anything on the back.  Although….once I get my new black leather labels, this bag will definitely get one toward the top-center of the back.

Verdict – I love this design!  Initially, it wasn’t for me, but I made it my own.  It made me think out of the box a little bit and now I want to go through all the patterns I own and take a look at each one differently and how I can own each one.  It’s amazing what the fabric and some hardware can do to completely change up a bag.

For the Appaloosa bag, you can purchase the pattern and/or the instructional video here.

 

Please note there are affiliate links in this post.  I will only ever link to products I have used myself  and as always give you the real deal in my opinions and experiences.

Quilted Envelope Clutch :: Free Tutorial

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Envelope Clutches are everywhere right now and I was inspired by it simple and timeless shape.  This Quilted Envelope Clutch design is over-sized to give you ample room for all of your essentials, but still is nice  enough to go from day to night.  It’s a sleek bag when paired with the right faux (or real) leather.  Coincidentally, this clutch design also fits a MacBook Pro perfectly, so its versatile and you can change up the fabrics to make it as laptop holders.

As I wrote in last week’s post from the Observer blog tour here, I like to show how hip and modern quilting can be.  I love how the piecing of a half log-cabin accentuates the envelope shape and the monotone palette keeps it chic.  Simple quilting adds enough texture and detail without being over-the-top…or over-worked.

This tutorial is for the faux leather version and finishes at approximately 14 3/4″ x 10 1/2″.  As with all patterns, don’t jump the gun…please ready through the instructions in their entirety.  Shoot me an email and/or leave me a comment if you have any questions.  Enjoy!

Materials Required:

  • Faux leather/ Vegan leather / Vinyl (1/2 yd)
  • Lining & Pocket Fabric (1 yd)
  • Pieced Panel scraps (1/4 yd)
  • Pieced Panel Lining Fabric (1/4 yd)
  • Woven Fusible Interfacing [Pellon SF101] (2 1/2 yds)
  • Ultra-firm Sew-In Interfacing [Pellon 70 Peltex] (1 yd)
  • 9″ Zipper
  • Magnetic Snap
  • Coordinating Thread(s)
  • Poster Board (optional for cutting pattern templates)
  • Spray Baste or Fabric Glue Pen (optional)
  • Clover Clips

 Cutting Instructions: 

  1. Create the body and center panel cutting templates following the black numbers.  Make markings for the numbers and lines in purple.
    • Cut the angles by finding the mid-point of the short-sides of each template.  cutting-template
    • Round out each of the “envelope points” using a large spool of threadimg_7001
  2. Use your larger template to cut:
    • (1) Body with faux leather
    • (1) Lining
    • (2) Woven Fusible Interfacingsp1060660
  3. With the Firm Sew-In Interfacing, cut:
    • (2) 14 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ rectangles
    • (1) Triangle per the following photo:img_7014a
  4. For pieced Center Panel (as a half log-cabin), cut:
    • (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square
    • (34) 5″ x 1 1/2″ strips
    • Use smaller template to cut (1) Center Panel liningp1060674
  5. For Lining Pockets, cut:
    • (1) 16″ x 11″ rectangle with the lining fabric
    • (1) 16″ x 11″ rectangle with fusible woven interfacing
    • (1) 9″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle with faux leather

Construction:

(1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise noted)

  1. Interface the body.  *Please check and test the heat settings beforehand.  Not all vinyl/faux leather is created equal.

    • Place the Peltex pieces per the following photo.  Leave 3/8″ allowance all around the edge of the vinyl.  Keep 3/4″ in between the (2) 14 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ pieces.  Make sure you align the Peltex triangle long edge with the top corners of the vinyl.  You can can secure them in place with a little spray baste or with Sewline glue pen.  *It’s important to have the Peltex split into 3 pieces to give the ease and flexibility where the clutch will fold.  It will also alleviate some of the “cracking” appearance that can happen with interfacings that are forced to moved a lot.p1060663
    • Use one of the fusible woven interfacing pieces and fuse on top of the firm sew-in interfacing.  You may need to work the edges of the SF101 around the Peltex with your iron. Set aside.interface-vinyl
  2. Fuse the 2nd piece of fusible woven interfacing to your lining.  Set aside
  3. Fuse the pocket fusible woven interfacing to the pocket lining fabric.  Set aside
  4. Prepare Center Panelp1060670
    • Piece as desired.  I used a traditional half log-cabin design, but you can use anything that you like as long as it can be trimmed to the Center Panel template you created earlier.
      • Line up the short-end of the first strip (gray-blue speck) with the edge of the square (eagle) and sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.  Press open
      • Line up the short end of another strip (navy dashes) with the opposite edge of the square (eagle) and sew.  Alternate sides until you have used all 34 strips.
      • Use Center Panel template and trim to fit.
    • Assemble the Center Panel by placing the right-sides of the center piecing with the center panel lining.p1060675
    • Sew all around leaving an opening at the TOP to turn.p1060676
    • Notch out the BOTTOM and all cornersp1060678
    • Pull right-side out and press
  5. Line up the center panel on top of the right-side of the faux leather.  Make sure it’s even on both sides of the panel.  You can secure it into place using pins since you don’t see the faux leather.p1060680
  6. Topstitch into place.  It may seem easier to have sewn this panel onto the vinyl before all of the interfacing, but this is how you will secure all of the Peltex into place and prevent any shifting with use.p1060683TIPS:
    • Use upholstery thread or any other nylon/polyester thread.  I like the upholstery for the heavier weight, the sheen, and it glides well through all of the layers.
    • Increase your stitch-length to at least 3.0 for a nice look
    • Use a walking foot for even stitches
    • You may need to increase your needle size if the thread is not pulling through and/or you are getting skipped stitches
    • Keep matching all-purpose polyester thread in the bobbin.  It helps with skipped stitches.
  7. At this point, you can quilt the vinyl, if desired.  Set the body aside.IMG_6780 IMG_6880
    • TIP:  Use washi tape for your guidelines. Chalk and pen will easily smear off the faux leather.IMG_6772
  8. Attach pockets onto lining
    • With the flat edge of the lining on top and right side facing you, measure 3″ down from the straight edge and 3 1/4″ in on either side.  Pin (where you will sew) the faux leather into place 1/8″ from the edges (marked in yellow.)  You can leave this as a large slip pocket or you can divide it for your cell phone.  I marked mine 3 1/2″ in from the edge to hold an iPhone 6. Sew the three edges into place and then the dividing seam (marked by yellow.)img_7026
  9. Turn the lining 180 degrees.  With the right-side facing you, mark 10 1/2″ down from the top of the lining and pin the short-side of the  pocket lining fabric there.  Mark a rectangle 1″ down from the top and sides of the pocket that is 9″ x 3/8″ (blue pen.)  p1060690
  10. Sew all-around the 9″ x 3/8″ rectangle on the marks you made.  Cut through the rectangle as shown, stopping about 1/4″ from the end (red pen lines.) [Image a]. Make small cuts from the middle out to each corner, getting close to the stitches, but not cutting directly through.  Push pocket through the hole [images b & c] and press [image d].lining-pocket-collage
  11. With the right side of the lining facing you, line up the zipper in the opening just created.  Either pin in place or use Sewline glue pen.  Sew 1/8″ all around the opening.img_7024
  12. With the wrong-side of the lining facing you, fold up the pocket so the short-sides match.  Press on the fold.  Pin all around the pocket, but not including the lining. Sew pocket shut (following blue dashed lines in pictures.)  Make sure you move the lining out-of-the-way as you sew.img_7025

Assembly:

  1. Now match the right-sides of the lining and body together.  Clip in place and sew all around the edge (marked in blue) with a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Back-stitch when you start and end leaving a 5″ opening to turn. Notch out corners and the top of the clutch.  Be very careful not to cut through any stitches.img_7032
    • TIP:  Use a compensating foot or a zipper foot since the Peltex give you can uneven surface. img_7034
  2. With wrong sides together, make markings for your magnetic snap and install per manufacturer’s instructions.  With the point being so narrow at the top of the clutch, you may need to move your snap up or down to make sure there is enough clearance for all parts of the clasp.  For the male part, I marked mine 1 1/4″ down from the top edge of the lining and marked the female where it hit the body (approx. 7″ from straight short side.)
    • TIP: Before you install, reinforce where you will cut with a scrap piece of interfacing.p1060602
  3. Turn the body right-side out and press with the lining facing up.  Be careful not to press the faux leather directly with your iron.
    • TIP:  Use Clover Clips on the edges to help them stay flat and/or hammer them as well.  Hammering helps to flatten the edges so top-stitching will be easier in the next step.  Test the hammer method on scrap to make sure the hammer doesn’t leave marks.
  4. img_7036Time to {finally} make the envelope!
    • Top-stitch along the straight short-end of the body (red dashed line)
    • Fold the front of the clutch up 10″ to create the main pocket and secure the sides into place with Clover Clips
    • Top-stitch all along the clutch (following the yellow dashed line)
      • TIPS:
        • Use a large 16 or 18 needle to get through all the layers
        • Increase stitch-length to 3.5-4.0 and use your walking foot to achieve even stitches
        • GO SLOW so that you do not skip stitches
        • Hammer the edges again, if needed
        • Leave long thread tails so you can pull them through the lining and hide for a cleaner finish
    • Hide thread tails by pulling them toward the lining, knot, then bury.
    • Press the lining

img_7063

If you want to get extra fancy, you can add some additional finishes.  Some examples are:

  • Sew a wristlet handle with hardware (as shown)
  • Just add the D-ring so you can attach some fun tassels.
  • Include a key fob on the inside
  • Attach rivets and grommets

img_7042

 

CONGRATS!!!  You have made a #LYSquiltedenvelopeclutch!  Please, please share your creations.  I would love to see them all!

As long as you credit Love You Sew with the pattern (because it took me a long time to write this all up,) you are free to sell the finished clutch.

Product Details (Sources in Links):

Bohemian Fringe Cross-Body Bag


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If you haven’t noticed already, I’ve been really getting into bag-making.  I’ve used leather (both faux and real) and now I get to add some suede into the repertoire.  Ever since I got to play with Bound Fabrics for Spring Quilt Market, I’ve had my eye on this Macrame print.  I’ve been meaning  to make a bag with it ever since the line came out, but you know how selfish projects just get pushed to the side for others…  When Art Gallery Fabrics announced a Bound Fabric Bag Challenge, I knew it was my time to finally make my purse!

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I was inspired by a bag I saw in Banana Republic.  It had the fun fringe on the side and was a generous size for a mama-on-the-go.  The only thing it lacked was an interesting print to make it really pop.  April RhodesBound Fabrics were the perfect options for this style of bag.  She creates optimal Bohemian Chic designs.

FabricCloseUp

Initially, I wanted a lighter camel colored leather for the fringe and strap.  I stopped by Tandy Leather here in Columbus to see if they could help.  It turned out large pieces of suede were on sale that day and how could I beat $20 for the skin?  I could have easily spent way more on the idea I had in my head.  It’s good to be flexible and I am SO happy with the results!

InteriorZipper

For the construction of the bag, I use Pellon Thermolam and SF-101 to give some structure, but still allow for that slouchy-relaxed look that comes with Boho style.  For the interior, I used Diamond Cloth Cereus and added a nice big pocket with a brass zipper.  Although they are not as smooth as plastic zippers, I just cannot pass the opportunity of using a beautiful brass one.

InteriorPockets

On the other side of the interior, I added a small pocket for my smart phone and an extra pocket for all the other small knick-knacks I bury in my purses.  I’ve learned that I need the phone pocket most of all in bags….especially since I like these over-sized styles.  ‘Having this one tiny feature alleviates a lot of headaches trying to find my “life-line!”

HarwareCloseUp

All of the hardware is from Emmaline Bags and adding the rivets were not as difficult as I thought they would be.  It’s important to have a good leather punch and the right anvils for the job.  The guys at Tandy Leather helped me get set with the right supplies.

Like with my Cargo Duffle, I used Gutterman Top-Stitch thread to make my straps.  I just love that  professional look of the thicker thread.  It takes time to work out the tension, but worth it in the end!

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If you get the chance, can you please help me with the Bound Challenge?  You can head over to Art Gallery’s Pinterest board here.  If you “heart” my post, I will earn a point and then if you “re-pin” it, I will earn an additional point.  Please make sure you do so through Art Gallery’s board so the “hearts” and “re-pins” are recorded.  ***Update: Contest is over*** Thank you so much to all who voted!!!!

The prizes will help me keep a stock of fabric and notions so my projects and posts can keep coming to you 🙂  And you know I like to giveaway too…..

Crossing my fingers (and zippers!)

Cristy

***This post may contain affiliate links for which I may receive a small compensation upon your completed purchase. These help keep the site up and running.