Category: Clothing

Review || Fibre Mood Paulette Blouse

When I saw the previews for issue 13 of the Fibre Mood Magazine, I was awestruck with the flirty and fun nature of the Paulette Blouse.  This button-up top has a ruffle starting from one princess seam running around the back to the other.  The hem line runs straight and hits right at the high hip.  With a band collar and two-button cuff, this blouse has all of the features of a classic shirt, but has that feminine touch with all the ruffles! We’re still in a life of Zoom calls, so statement blouses are all on trend.   That means the prairie influence of last year is hanging around even a little longer than trends generally go — YAY!  I know not everyone is into that “cottage-core” style, so updating it with the right fabric can make the look last a little longer than the all-out trend.

FABRIC

I LOVED the sample version of the Paulette when I first saw the stock photos!  Is anyone not surprised it made the  cover of Issue 13?  There was just something with the directional play on stripes and the classic mix with softer ruffles that just really worked for me.  But, of course, I wanted to make this blouse with my own spin… While in the middle of deep Ohio snow, I knew I needed to start thinking about warm weather and spring clothes.  This cheerful green and white striped lawn came up in one of my late night searches.  While I initially found it on Fabric.com, I was worried about delayed shipping times (due to COVID-19) and not being able to make my FM ambassador deadline.  PRO-TIP ->  I checked  Amazon to see if they carried the same fabric (since they also own Fabric.com.)  If you have a Prime Membership, many times you can get the same fabric cheaper AND faster than if you purchase through Fabric.com.  I even have a business account with Fabric.com and it turned out Amazon + Prime was still a better deal!!! #winning I chose to use lawn since it’s very lightweight and breathable — perfect for warm weather.  However, it also tends to be semi-sheer.  So lawn is great for blouses and other tops….but you will definitely need a lining for a dress or pants.  The other great feature of lawn…especially 100% cotton version, is that it holds great structure while still having a soft hand.  While the fabric is light, you can really get great body and volume that won’t cling onto every curve and still make  some gorgeous statement ruffles!  If you like the look more of the FM cover sample, something more drapey like a rayon challis or light tencel twill would give you that look. This fabric purchase was made on a whim since I loved the green and white stripes.  And…I’m happy to report I would definitely buy it again.  It washes and dries well since the fabric is 100% cotton (and I do NOT like to line dry if I don’t have to!)  It sews up easily without shifting issues like your typical quilt cotton.  Since the fabric is lightweight, I did drop my regular needle size down to 70, but used my normal all-purpose Gutermann white thread for construction.

PATTERN

Fibre Mood sells their patterns either as a full set through their magazine (definitely a great deal if you want 3 or more patterns) or digitally, a la carte.  The instructions are available to any registered user through the website (in 5 different languages!) which is a really generous feature.  So, you can read through the complete instructions and understand the steps BEFORE buying the actual pattern! I printed the Paulette pattern at home and loved being able to uncheck the other tiled sizes I didn’t need.  While it’s definitely more labor intensive to print and assemble the pattern at home, I was working against the clock and with bad weather conditions, I didn’t even want to send the A0 copy shop version out to the local printer. For this Fibre Mood pattern, I measured as an 8 in the bust and waist, while also being  a 12 in the hips — which is typical for my body.  Construction went very well with the ample amount of notches (I do love them!) and the great instructions.  I have made many other blouses with button plackets like the Archer and Aida tops, so I knew what to expect. Overall, I stayed true to the pattern and made only the following modifications:
  • Graded the waist out to a 12 in the hip
  • Used a 1/4″ hem instead of 3/4″ to lengthen the top.  Next time, I may add an extra inch for more coverage to tuck in…and I’m only 5’3″!
  • Increased the overall bust by 1/2″ by letting out 1/8″ from each princess seam.  The finished measurement of the blouse is suppose to be ~40″.  But when I tried on the blouse, it was pressing against my chest as I moved and didn’t have nearly the ease as it should.  Even after releasing that 1/2″ from the princess seams, the finished bust measured at 39″ and not 40″ as stated.  My pattern pieces and seam allowances were correct, so I would highly recommend a muslin and/or sizing up if you are in-between.
This Fiber Mood Paulette was a great sew and I love the final results!  This is a nice fresh take on the ruffle blouse and makes me long for some sun and warmer temperatures!  What’s on your spring maker list?   Hugs and Stitches, Cristy
Please note, I am on the Fibre Mood influencer team and an affiliate member. I received this pattern for free but was not obligated to write this blog post.  This post may also contain affiliate links.  Please read my disclosures here.

Review: Sirocco Jumpsuit in Luxe Green Scuba

2 Comments
This post was originally written for the Minerva Crafts blog in November, 2019. Additional edits have been made after real-life wear of the garment.

Intro 

Hi, this is Cristy Stuhldreher from Love You Sew with my very first #MinervaMake as a blog contributor!!!  I was SO excited to be invited to be part of such an extensive team of bloggers here and equally excited to play with so much beautiful fabric.  My first find was this gorgeous Lady McElroy Luxury Plain Scuba Jersey Knit Fabric in Bottle Green.  With autumn (my favorite season!) quickly coming to the States, I knew I would need to get ahead and make some transitional garments with the switch of temperatures that are bound to come.  So, after I saw this scuba fabric I immediately thought of the Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit (like many other contributors already have!)

Fabric

This Lady McElroy Luxury Plain Scuba Jersey Knit Fabric was such a great find!  I’m a big fan of Ponte de Roma fabrics and knew I would love Scuba just the same since they are both heavy double-knits.  They feel and act very similarly, but are made of different fibers.  Scuba is generally poly and elastane whereas Ponte is generally viscose and elastane.  This soft and smooth Scuba Jersey did not disappoint with its great stretch and nice body which is perfect for a jumpsuit when you don’t want every bodily imperfection to show through.  It is also works SO well for a knit jumpsuit with amazing stretch and recovery.  The last thing I would want after all of this hard work would be a saggy stretched out butt!
It’s always hard to tell how color will come out in person versus on a computer, so I was a bit nervous to see how the Bottle Green would be.  It looked slightly more muted, like a deeper sage green on my screen.  But I was actually delighted  to see that the fabric was more of a deep rich gem tone – a solid “Hunter” green, in my opinion.  With my olive skin and dark hair, I love a gem tone- especially for the colder months ahead!  After a few washes, the color has stayed true to the first day it arrived on my doorstep – love that!
With this fabric being a double-knit, I would recommend using a ball-point needle and your stretchiest stitch found on your machine (zig-zag, triple-zig-zag, lightning bolt, etc.)  I used a combination of my overlocker and coverstitch to allow my jumpsuit the greatest amount of stretch to fit larger hips.

Pattern

Jumpsuits still look to be on trend a little while longer, so I thought it was safe to make the Sirocco Jumpsuit for the fall.  With the short-sleeves and full pant legs (on View A) I figured this was a great garment to wear on the cooler nights downtown with or without needing a jacket.
The Sirocco is a unique pattern in that there are no ties or other fasteners used to get in and out of the garment.  You slip in and out of it all through the faux wrap V-neckline.  This might not pose a huge deal for most, but I have hips which are two sizes larger than my waist –which means I REALLY will need to stretch out the waist to maneuver around.  This is the main reason I chose the heavy Scuba fabric to handle the severe stretching over my hips.  As I was fitting the garment, I honestly thought I would have to put in a side zipper for my hips, but the Lady McElroy Luxury Plain Scuba Jersey Knit Fabric proved to have such amazing stretch and recovery that I didn’t need it!  Honestly, I feel like I could wear this all day long…even after multiple bathroom breaks!
I made a few modifications for my SHORT 5’3″ frame with those aforementioned HIPS:
  • Made a 40 bodice and graded to a 42 in the hips and back to a 40 for the rest of the leg
  • Shortened bodice by 1/2″ and used a chainstitch (from my coverstitch) to secure the seam allowance down since the fabric is so lofty – This allows the lapped bodice to stay secure over your chest.
  • Shortened pant legs by 4″ initially (by just tissue fitting) and then took an additional 3 3/4″ when it was time to hem so that it would hit right above the ankle bone – Next time, I will shorten at the thigh and also from the ankle to get a better fit around the knee.
  • Extended the crotch length 3/4″ on both the front and back pant
  • Deepened the seat on the back pant by 3/8″
  • I wish I took out an 1″ out of the rise before cutting, but was able to take 1/2″ out of the overall inseam to narrow the legs and decrease the rise.
  • Took an additional 1″ out of the ankle and blended up to the knee for a slimmer leg

After these changes, I can’t tell you how incredibly pleased I am with my Sirocco Jumpsuit.  The Lady McElroy Luxury Plain Scuba Jersey Knit Fabricis so chic and the deep green really does make the Sirocco Jumpsuit so “EXTRA!”  Love it!!!
You can find my other makes on the Love You Sew Blog (here!) and more daily inspiration on Instagram @loveyousew_ .

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

 

Affiliate links are in this post. Check out my Disclosures here. Fabric was provided for review as part of the Minerva Maker Blog Team.  All thoughts and opinions are my own.  

 

Add Puff Sleeve Drama with a Sheridan Sweater Hack

This post was originally published on the Hey June Handmade Blog in January, 2020.  Edits are in italics and additional pictures have been added (since I love this pattern SO much!)

When I first hacked this Sheridan Sweater for the Hey June Handmade Blog, I had no idea it was going to become one of my MOST worn tops. Prior to March, life was pretty normal while we were just starting to hear about the pandemic. My social world was still moving along and was able to wear my Sheridan to Lunar New Year celebrations (as planned!), Galentine’s Day fun with my girls, and was my go-to for a night out.  I knew even back then that I wanted another Sheridan.

After a #sewingfail with the wrong fabric (it was a red and cream colored stripe that clashed and looked HORRIBLE with my skin tone and hair highlights,) I was ready to make another.  This time I wasn’t going to mess around.  I knew I would ADORE my new Sheridan because I used…the same hack…and the same fabric as my OG…just a different color!

 

Back in early December, I knew I needed a new red top.  My one cardigan just wasn’t enough for all of the holiday school parties, concerts, church events and even family get-togethers.  I wore that one piece of red clothing OUT and knew I needed something else to add to my festive wardrobe.  But did I really need a new top???  Did I really want to make one??? Then the Sheridan Sweater was launched and my questions were answered.

All of my internal fighting against wanting “another” knit top disappeared.  After seeing the Sheridan launch, my mind switched and I bought the pattern right away.  Of course, I need  a new red top!  It WILL work through the holiday season, AND into the Lunar New Year AND be useful for Valentine’s Day school parties!  Why wouldn’t I need the Sheridan Sweater in my life?!?

Adrianna did a fantastic job designing the different views and I’m obsessed with the seamless funnel neck, which I haven’t seen in any other DIY pattern.  The Sheridan Sweater also has the big statement sleeves which is on still on trend and I knew both of these features would really stand out in red.  But since this was going to be my all-winter holiday top, I wanted to bring it up juuuuust an extra notch.

FABRIC

I found this beautiful textured waffle knit from Telio fabrics.  One of the reasons this sweater has been on constant wardrobe repeat is the fabric.  As a poly/spandex blend, the color saturation is on point.  After all of the washing and drying I’ve done, the color still looks as intense as day one.  I was concerned that the texture might be lost over time with dryer heat, but it’s all still there!

The Paola Pique Liverpool’s medium weight was a perfect complement to this pattern.  It has great body and really shows off the full sleeves.  The stretch and recovery is also very nice.  When I pull up on the sleeves and adjust the waistband, it  holds it’s size well and doesn’t stretch out over the course of the day.  This fabric comes in so many rich jewel tones that I had to have the Emerald.  The pictures come up more teal, but this color swings more to the green side in-person.

TUTORIAL

I figured if I was going red, I wanted to make the sleeves stand out even more. So….I hacked the sleeves to be more voluminous in the sleeve head for All. Of. The. Drama.  Below is my quick and definitely non-technical way to achieve that extra shoulder poof.

1. Take the sleeve pattern and make a copy.  (I traced the pattern onto some Swedish tracing paper I had on-hand.  I like using this since it’s more pliable than regular paper and can be pinned/sewn without being destroyed.)

2. Divide the sleeve into approximately 4 equal sections by width.  With the nice notch markings already drafted as part of the pattern, I used these as guide when splitting the sleeve.

3. Cut the pattern to separate these sections from the sleeve head all the way down to the cuff, but NOT cutting through.  All of the sections should be hinges and able to move.

4. To start, I added 1” in between each section.  I placed scrap paper underneath the pattern, and hinged each section out by 1” at the sleeve cap.  Then I taped the pattern onto the scrap.  Repeat 2 more times between the sections.  If you would like more volume, you can increase the hinge widths.

5. To get the extra volume at the top of the cap, I added 3/4” to the top and blended the line back to the notched parts of the cap, all while following its shaping.  Again, if you want a little more puff in the sleeve cap, feel free to add a little more to length to the top.

6. At the cuff line, true up the pattern so it is straight again.

At this point, I cut out the pattern and did make a muslin, but only had quilt cotton on hand.  It gave me an idea of the extra volume and shape added to the sleeve.  I did have to consider the extra weight and stretch with the knit fabric.  But it was still good enough for me and I went ahead to cut into the main fabric.

To insert the sleeve, I made gathers between the sleeve notches not exactly knowing how it would all look.  But I ended up marking 3” on either side of the shoulder seam and pushed all the gathers in between those markings.  I basted the sleeve into place and was very happy with the result!  With that, I finished sewing the sweater and have never been more pleased!

This hack turned out exactly like what I wanted and just love how “extra” the sleeves are.  The additional gathers and volume in the sleeve cap really balance out the overall ease in the sleeve and I love the extra long cuff to show it all off.  This top is pretty fancy and ready for every occasion now.  It’s still comfy in a stretch knit, but also so incredibly unique and special!

Project Summary

  • Pattern: Sheridan Sweater by Hey June Handmade; View: B; Size 10
  • Mods: Narrowed shoulders by 1/2″ each, increased the cropped length by 1″, used Puff shoulder hack above
  • Fabric: Telio Pique Liverpool Knit from Fabric.com in Hermes Red and Emerald

This hack can be used on just about any pattern with a set-in sleeve.  I may have to try it on a woven pattern this fall/winter.  Please let me know in the comments if you use this hack!  I would love to hear what you think!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read my full Disclosure here.

 

Full Zip Hack with the Grace Rashie Pattern

2 Comments

When I first hacked the Grace Rashie by Swim Style Patterns two years ago, I never documented the process…Big mistake, I know!  It was one of my late night experimentations which you can find here.  I honestly didn’t know if it would work or not and got so wrapped up in the process that I didn’t write down measurements or take photos of my complete step outs.  But luckily, I knew I needed at least a second rashguard for myself and made sure to document it this time!

Supplies Needed

Tutorial

Step 1:  Cut all pattern templates according to instructions.  Pull out the “Front Section” and add 1/4″ to the center-front as shown.  You will cut at the dashed line for just the “Top.”

Note: I made a size M and all measurements for center front, zipper guard, and zipper are ALL for this size.  You will have to adjust as needed for your sizing.

Step 2:  Cut all fabric according to instructions EXCEPT for the “Front Section.”  Instead of cutting the “Front Section” on the fold, you will cut TWO separate mirrored pieces using that 1/4″ you added in.

Step 3: Cut (2) 19 1/4″(length of the center front)  x 1/2″ strips of interfacing and fuse to each wrong side of the  center “Front Sections.”  Set aside.

left side of image is the Bottom and the right side is the Top

Step 4:  Cut (1) 19 1/4″ (same as length of center front) x 3″ strip of Main Fabric for the Zipper Guard.  Fold the fabric lengthwise with right sides together and press with low-heat iron, if needed. Mark seam with 1/4″ at the bottom.  For the top, measure 1/4″ down at the raw edge and then 1″ down on the folded side.  Connect the two points with a curved line as shown.  It doesn’t need to be precise!

Step 5: Sew on the markings you made. (They don’t need to be serged, but I went ahead and serger the seams while my machine was set up.)

Step 6:  Flip the Zipper Guard right side out, pushing out the bottom corner and the top curve.  Press with a low-heat iron.  Match the raw edges and finish with serger or zig-zag stitch.  Set aside.

Step 7:  Prepare Zipper by folding down the excess tape above the top stoppers.  Tack the fold into place approx. 1/8″ away from the edge.  Trim the overhanging tape.  (If you are making size L, you might be able to skip this step and use the full length of the zipper.)

***Follow instructions to complete the Grace Rashie (skipping all zipper steps.)  When you get to the hem, double check that the length of the finished center front matches the length of the zipper.

Step 8: With the wrong side of the Zipper facing up, add Wonder Tape to each long side of the tape.

Bottom

Top

Step 9:  Separate the Zipper and lay one zipper side down on the stitched side of the Zipper Guard.  Pictured is the LEFT side of the zipper (without the head,) but my previous version had the head with the guard.  I honestly don’t know which side of the zipper should sit with the guard, is technically correct.  I was playing to see if there was any real difference in how it wore on the body and I didn’t feel anything different…

Step 10:  Fold the Top of the Zipper Guard over Zipper and tack into place with 1/8″ seam allowance.

Step 11:  Working on the LEFT side of the garment, match the center front of the Rashie with the Zipper Guard, right sides together.  Use a zipper foot and sew itogether with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Open the Zipper Guard and press seam allowance to the back.  Top-stitch 1/8″ from the edge of the Zipper, going through the Main Fabric, Zipper, and seam allowance.  Repeat with the RIGHT zipper.

Congratulations!  You now have a custom swim rashguard to protect your skin against the sun and elements.  I love having these for the cool winds of the lake.  The best part is when the rashguard gets wet, I can easily zip it off!

Please let me know how this tutorial worked for you!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read about my Disclosures, here.

Working Out with Ciré by Pine Crest Fabrics

4 Comments

With a short, petite frame and hips two sizes larger than my waist, I’ve struggled to find athletic wear that won’t roll or shift down while I move.  Even with poor luck with the big name athleisure companies, I started making my own work out clothes a few years ago and haven’t turned back since.  The fabric and compression fit are important factors to me and why I am SUCH a big fan of Pine Crest athletic fabrics.  I was pretty stoked when they asked me to work with their gorgeous Blazer Floral Printed Ciré fabric since I was curious to see how it felt and moved with it’s liquid-like look.

You can understand my love for this company by checking out my other makes using Pine Crest fabrics like my Full-Zip Rashguard, Textured Web Athleisure Capsule, and Holiday dress with their Stretch Velvet.

 

FABRIC

When I was first asked to work with the Blazer Floral Printed Ciré, I honestly admit, I was a little hesitant about how it would look and feel.  Would it be TOO shiny?  I mean, I do like some flash…but I don’t consider my style to be flash-yyy…  Would it have a “plastic” coating to it?  Would I end up sticking to it when I work out?  There were so. many. questions.

Well, I’m so glad I took the plunge because this fabric is A-MAZING!  While there is remarkable shine and sheen to the top of the fabric, the Ciré is not “sticky” at all.  It is smooth to the touch and is completely matte on the reverse, making it SO comfortable and soft.  The fabric is 80% Nylon, 20% Spandex, 195GSM, and has a generous 56/58″ WOF.  There is ~40% four-way stretch with GREAT compression — making this fabric ideal for working out, dancing and even swimwear.  You can check out more the full line of Ciré fabrics including more colors and prints here.

In addition to the amazing base cloth, the Blazer Floral Printed Ciré  has these stunning gold foil flowers that stretch and move beautifully with the fabric.  There are also subtle black printed shadows of the same flowers that give the fabric even more depth and texture.  I’ve washed this fabric twice and even tried to pick at the foil a little bit, and it is not coming off!  The fabric has remained vibrant with that signature sheen and even with all the stretching, the gold foil recovers back to a smooth finish — winner!

PATTERN

The true test of the Ciré is how it sews up and wears on the body.  So, I chose the Greenstyle Creations Power Sports Bra and Stride Athletic Tights (because…pockets!)  With the floral print, I made sure to take extra care with pattern placement with nothing odd coming out off the crotch and rear areas.  (We’ve all made those mistakes before!)  I LOVE the scale and how the foil flowers look on the body.  There is a nice balance between the gold and the navy base.  Too bad my Zumba studio is still closed, else, I’d be showing this off!

I used both my Juki MO-2000QVP Serger and Juki MCS-1700QVP Coverstitch to make both of these pieces.  It’s been awhile since I last used my Coverstitch machine and I was riding high on my “great” sewing skills on the first pass of the leggings…..until I went to try them on….and heard a series of pops.  Ugh!  I had to remove all of the thread and coverstitch again…only to go back and repeat.  SMH.  Even though I eventually got it right,  the Blazer Floral Printed Ciré took a pounding at the seams with so many additional punctures that were certainly not necessary.  With other stretch fabrics, the area would have been worn down and fuzzed up. But to my surprise, there didn’t seem to be any additional wear! This was kinda shocking since I really beat up the fabric.

With the reverse of the fabric being matte, I couldn’t help flip it over for a subtle accent.  You can see I used the matte side on the back of the tights and in the band and straps of the Power Sports Bra.  I love the extra use out of the same Blazer Floral Printed Ciré!

Other Pattern Notes:

  • Power Sports Bra –
    • Made the  34C U-back with extra wide band
    • Stitched down the sides of band to keep from shifting
    • Used reverse side of fabric for the lining
  • Stride Athletic Tights –
    • Made the Medium from hips down
    • Graded to Small in waist using curved add-on waistband
    • Add Power net to waistband along with elastic
    • Shortened pattern by 1.5″
    • Cut the cropped length
    • Added optional gusset for full range movement

PROJECT SUMMARY

I hope you are inspired to try out some new fabric that might not necessarily be your style…you maybe surprised with the results!

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

Fabric for this post was provided by Pine Crest Fabric.  Project conception and all opinions are my own.  

There maybe (noted) affiliate links in this post.  For my full disclosures, click here.