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Review: Fibre Mood Joy – Sweatshirt Dress

If you are like everyone else, you’ve been finding that that sweats and pajamas are the go-to wardrobe staples of this past year.  I was in a pretty good funk for awhile and found that I needed to “get dressed” in order to be somewhat productive during the day.  With a work-from-home lifestyle, I definitely go back and forth with a “real outfit” and just staying in my sweats.  Well folks, I think I found my answer to wearing a sweatsuit (all the time) during this pandemic.  To “change” things up, I’ve found the glory of the sweatshirt DRESS in the Fibre Mood Joy!

PATTERN

Fresh out of Fibre Mood Magazine #14 is Joy.  She is fun and sporty, but looks good in a dress!  If you didn’t think your wardrobe routine could get any easier, a sweatsuit became a dress!  There is only one piece to slip over your head and the quick adjustments of the waist toggles gives you some definition.  This is why I HAD to make this dress — comfortable casual all in one garment!!!

I measured a medium in the bust and large in the hips.  After looking at the finished measurements, I thought I would go with a straight medium, but decided to go large in the skirt since last issue’s Paulette came in slightly smaller than anticipated.  Next time, I will go with a large waist and grade to a medium hip to actually take the hip curve out of this pattern.  The cinching of the waist provides the needed shape, but I think the curve of the hip made it a little too “flappy” for my body.  Leaving the skirt more straight would also allow you to wear the dress relaxed and un-cinched.

As with out of my me mades, I had to make a few modifications 😉  My #1 must-have change was to add pockets.  Honestly, I can’t wear any dress without pockets anymore…so I will always add them even if the pattern authors leave them off (why would they ever!?!)

Fresh off making the Sirocco Jumpsuit, I used the large pocket template to make sure I could anchor the tops into the waistband.  This is just a guide since the pocket also needs to true-up with the side seam and the top of the skirt.

Another change I made was to add cuffs to the sleeves.  I do love the look of the relaxed wide sleeves, but since I’m short (5’3″) I know that some features will swallow me up.  I added 3″ long (6″ total) and 9.5″ wide tapered cuffs to fit around my forearms and give me some shape.  I left the sleeve length as drafted and ended up with the perfect 3/4″ sleeve!

With the skirt, I made a split about 10″ up from the bottom edge.  I drive a mini-van and I know getting up and down from the seat is MUCH easier if I have side slits.  Next time, I would definitely add in a wider seam allowance but luckily the weight of the sweatshirt fleece keeps the opening straight.

TIP:  For the waistband, I added some knit interfacing before making the buttonholes.  Knits can get easily torn up (at least with my machine) when making the openings, so I made sure to reinforce the areas.  This will also help with wear overtime from the elastic stress.

Speaking of elastic…I couldn’t get out to the store in time for this post and the Fibre Mood Link Party #18.  So instead of navy elastic cording, I improvised with metallic gold drawstrings I bought from Maker Mountain Fabrics.  (Who doesn’t say it pay to have a stash, right?)  Once I have a chance to get out, I’ll sub out the drawstrings for elastic.

The cord locks are left over from mask-making. I found a lot of deals online and came across a nice multi-colored pack awhile ago.  Fortunately, I have exactly two navy ones left to match my fabric.  Even with strings instead of cords, I’m loving the ease of wear with the locks.  I can change how high I want to wear Joy on my body…whether high waisted or lower on the hips.  It’s a nice feature to change around!

 

FABRIC

Sweatshirt knits can be pretty expensive and the initial ones I found were a bit pricey, but also at a heavier weight that what I wanted.  If I was making a plush winter top, they would work, but with a full dress, I didn’t want a fabric that would be too thick and weigh me down.

After some late night online shopping, I found this SUPER soft ORGANIC cotton sweatshirt fleece from Fabric.com.  It was perfect with the signature sweatshirt look (knit on one side and soft fleece on the other) and came in classic navy!  I think this sweatshirt fleece was a GREAT find at a very reasonable price AND it’s organic.  If I’m buying new fabric, I definitely look for ones that are from the USA and/or are environmentally friendly.  I’ve only washed it once so far, but there has not been any initial pilling and the inside fleece still feels amazing!  If you are looking for a midweight sweating shirting fabric, I would highly recommend this one!

Overall, I really love this dress.  I imagine wearing it All. The. Time. for something easy and comfortable while looking pulled together.  I didn’t even want to take this off after photography.  Only a cold weather front made me put on pants – ha!  It’s the perfect transition piece to take me out of my indoor work-from-home sweats!  Are you into the Joy sweatshirt dress look?  Tell me why in the comments 🙂

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

I am a Fibre Mood Brand Ambassador and affiliate.  This pattern was provided in lieu of a social media post, but a blog post was not required.  I purchase my own fabrics and notions.  All thoughts and opinions are my own.  For my full disclosures, click here.

Review || Fibre Mood Paulette Blouse

When I saw the previews for issue 13 of the Fibre Mood Magazine, I was awestruck with the flirty and fun nature of the Paulette Blouse.  This button-up top has a ruffle starting from one princess seam running around the back to the other.  The hem line runs straight and hits right at the high hip.  With a band collar and two-button cuff, this blouse has all of the features of a classic shirt, but has that feminine touch with all the ruffles! We’re still in a life of Zoom calls, so statement blouses are all on trend.   That means the prairie influence of last year is hanging around even a little longer than trends generally go — YAY!  I know not everyone is into that “cottage-core” style, so updating it with the right fabric can make the look last a little longer than the all-out trend.

FABRIC

I LOVED the sample version of the Paulette when I first saw the stock photos!  Is anyone not surprised it made the  cover of Issue 13?  There was just something with the directional play on stripes and the classic mix with softer ruffles that just really worked for me.  But, of course, I wanted to make this blouse with my own spin… While in the middle of deep Ohio snow, I knew I needed to start thinking about warm weather and spring clothes.  This cheerful green and white striped lawn came up in one of my late night searches.  While I initially found it on Fabric.com, I was worried about delayed shipping times (due to COVID-19) and not being able to make my FM ambassador deadline.  PRO-TIP ->  I checked  Amazon to see if they carried the same fabric (since they also own Fabric.com.)  If you have a Prime Membership, many times you can get the same fabric cheaper AND faster than if you purchase through Fabric.com.  I even have a business account with Fabric.com and it turned out Amazon + Prime was still a better deal!!! #winning I chose to use lawn since it’s very lightweight and breathable — perfect for warm weather.  However, it also tends to be semi-sheer.  So lawn is great for blouses and other tops….but you will definitely need a lining for a dress or pants.  The other great feature of lawn…especially 100% cotton version, is that it holds great structure while still having a soft hand.  While the fabric is light, you can really get great body and volume that won’t cling onto every curve and still make  some gorgeous statement ruffles!  If you like the look more of the FM cover sample, something more drapey like a rayon challis or light tencel twill would give you that look. This fabric purchase was made on a whim since I loved the green and white stripes.  And…I’m happy to report I would definitely buy it again.  It washes and dries well since the fabric is 100% cotton (and I do NOT like to line dry if I don’t have to!)  It sews up easily without shifting issues like your typical quilt cotton.  Since the fabric is lightweight, I did drop my regular needle size down to 70, but used my normal all-purpose Gutermann white thread for construction.

PATTERN

Fibre Mood sells their patterns either as a full set through their magazine (definitely a great deal if you want 3 or more patterns) or digitally, a la carte.  The instructions are available to any registered user through the website (in 5 different languages!) which is a really generous feature.  So, you can read through the complete instructions and understand the steps BEFORE buying the actual pattern! I printed the Paulette pattern at home and loved being able to uncheck the other tiled sizes I didn’t need.  While it’s definitely more labor intensive to print and assemble the pattern at home, I was working against the clock and with bad weather conditions, I didn’t even want to send the A0 copy shop version out to the local printer. For this Fibre Mood pattern, I measured as an 8 in the bust and waist, while also being  a 12 in the hips — which is typical for my body.  Construction went very well with the ample amount of notches (I do love them!) and the great instructions.  I have made many other blouses with button plackets like the Archer and Aida tops, so I knew what to expect. Overall, I stayed true to the pattern and made only the following modifications:
  • Graded the waist out to a 12 in the hip
  • Used a 1/4″ hem instead of 3/4″ to lengthen the top.  Next time, I may add an extra inch for more coverage to tuck in…and I’m only 5’3″!
  • Increased the overall bust by 1/2″ by letting out 1/8″ from each princess seam.  The finished measurement of the blouse is suppose to be ~40″.  But when I tried on the blouse, it was pressing against my chest as I moved and didn’t have nearly the ease as it should.  Even after releasing that 1/2″ from the princess seams, the finished bust measured at 39″ and not 40″ as stated.  My pattern pieces and seam allowances were correct, so I would highly recommend a muslin and/or sizing up if you are in-between.
This Fiber Mood Paulette was a great sew and I love the final results!  This is a nice fresh take on the ruffle blouse and makes me long for some sun and warmer temperatures!  What’s on your spring maker list?   Hugs and Stitches, Cristy
Please note, I am on the Fibre Mood influencer team and an affiliate member. I received this pattern for free but was not obligated to write this blog post.  This post may also contain affiliate links.  Please read my disclosures here.

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 6: Final Bag Assembly

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now at the FINISH —  Part 6: Final Bag Assembly!  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

It’s now time to put the bag altogether and add all the dimension.  To make sewing a little easier, remove the sewing machine table to better maneuver the bag around the free arm.  Take time sewing even though the videos are short…most segments have been sped up 4x-6x the normal speed!

ASSEMBLE the exterior

To assemble the exterior part of the bag, click into the video above.  Note the following as you watch:

  • You can always unzip zipper to help ease the bag under the machine
  • Don’t be afraid to  use finger and arm muscles to keep thick layers together.  Move up to a larger needle, if needed
  • Backstitch well over pocket seams
  • Go back and stitch Y-seam corners, if needed.  I have to go back all the time!
  • With Main bottom, trimmed SA in half instead of notching due to thickness of canvas and foam.

ADD LINING To FINISH BAG

Items to note:

  • I added the Craft/Wonder tape to the Lining while it was free and unattached to the bag.  This makes it a little easier than waiting later as instructed in the pattern
  • Trim back any foam or fabric that maybe creating bulk, especially at the zipper ends.
  • When attaching the Lining, fold in the seam allowance  to see where placement should be BEFORE gluing.
  • Again, move slowly for even stitching around the zipper
  • If you are looking for the Jumbo Clips or thimble I use, you can find them on my >> Amazon Erin Backpack Supply List.

If you haven’t added the rivets onto the Back Strap Tabs, you can add them on now.  (I’ve decided to leave them off of my version.)

 

CONGRATULATIONS on your new Erin Backpack!  Make sure to post your pictures on Instagram using #ErinBackpackSewAlong #ErinBackpack and #LoveYouSewPatterns to win the prize pack!  Entries are open until the end of the month!

Thank you to everyone who has joined along for my very first sew along!  I’ve learned quite a bit about video editing while trying to provide you the right content to navigate through this pattern.  I hope you enjoyed it!  Let me know your thoughts in the comments.

 

Happy Stitching!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read here for all of my Disclosures.

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 5: Make the Lining

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now on Part 5: Make the Lining.  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

With this part, we will tackle the entire lining and even assemble it!

Zipper pocket

The interior Welt Zipper Pocket is constructed the same way as the outside one, except without the Zipper Plate.  So, we don’t have to go through all of the steps again.  If you need a fresher, you can head back to Part 4.

With this pocket, there is no basting, just a regular topstitch to secure the zipper to the lining (as shown above.) .

For some more visual interest, you can always add another Zipper Plate or add in some rivets.  I placed one on with side of the zipper opening,  3/8″ from each end AFTER pocket has been closed up.  This helps add a little more security to the pocket lining.

You may have noticed that I added in a branding tag.  This is not apart of the instructions, so I skipped it in the video.  But if you would like to add one in this same spot, I sew the tag after finishing the Welt Zipper Pocket.  The leather stamped tags are from ViVi in Oz.

Slip Pocket, Elastic Pockets and assembly

The rest of the Lining construction and assembly can be found in the video above.  You can view the different sections timestamped as follows:

  • Slip Pocket  (00:10)
  • Elastic Pockets (01:35 )
  • Accessory Strap (04:25)
  • Key Fob (04:58)
  • Assembly (05: 06)

Items to note:

  • You can get extra hardware help by clicking on these posts -> Rivets  -> Spring Snaps
  • May need to adjust the length of elastic based on what type/style you are using.  You want to have enough pulled in so that the Elastic pocket is bunched up enough to equal the length of the Front Lining.
  • DON’T skip the 2nd line of baste stitching for the gathering.  It makes life MUCH easier –especially when trying to gather stiffened fabric from the interfacing.
  • If you would like to take the option of adding rivets to the Elastic Pockets, make sure to NOT punch the holes directly on a seam.
  • Yes, the Front Lining IS suppose to be shorter than the Back Lining.  This takes the width of the zipper into account and incorporates it as part of the backpack’s front wall.

 

Can you taste the finish?  The very last of the Erin Backpack sew along comes later this week, Part 6:  Final Assembly.  I hope you have been enjoying the process.  Don’t forget to use #erinbackpack #erinbackpacksewalong and #loveyousewpatterns on Social Media!  I’m so excited to see your finished bags!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

 

 

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 4: Create the Front Panel

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now on Part 4: Create the Front Panel.  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

 

With this part,  we are tackling the entire Front Panel with four different pockets. It seems overwhelming, but I’ve broken down all the pockets into 4 different short videos so you can work at your own pace.

 

WELT Zipper POCKET

At this point, the Front Panel is the only pattern piece left that hasn’t been basted to foam. This is added later because creating the Front Welt Pocket through foam would produce so much bulk and be very difficult to work with.  I love all of you too much to put you through the extra wrestling and time spent trimming back foam! Ha!

I know you will ask me about the zipper pulls used on my bag 😉 These zippers are from MyHandmadeSpace and yes, I made the tabs myself!  They are approximately 3/8″ x 4″ folded in half and secured with a seam straight up the center.  I added a rivet to balance out the look with the rest of my bag.  These are SUCH a great option to really personalize your bag.  I’m so glad I bought them as a stash option!

Now let’s get to work.  Click into the video about to watch how the Welt Zipper Pocket is created.  Please note the following from the video:

  • I am using “Craft” Tape as an alternative to Wonder Tape. This is only 1/8″ wide, but is permanent.  With the coating on the canvas, I wanted to use a tape that was a little stronger than Wonder Tape. So, to avoid human error, I like to add this directly to the zipper tape first, and not to the lining.
  • While adding on the Zipper Plate, I used glue instead of Wonder Tape.  Again, I was looking for something stronger I could sew through and unfortunately, Craft Tape cannot be sewn through. (Your needle would gum up.)
  • I’m adding the rivets earlier than the instructions.  I don’t know why….but I started going by memory without checking instructions and went out of order. (This is what I get for not checking!) There is not a huge difference if you add them before closing the pocket lining or waiting until after the foam is basted on.  Per the instruction, my intent to add them post foam, was to have extra anchor points against the foam to keep it from separating with the Front Panel.  But there are many other points anchoring the foam to the main fabric with the rest of the pockets and Front Strap Tabs.

TIP: When I sew through an accent fabric and want to minimize punctures, I like to pull the threads through for a clean continuous line of stitches.  However, from the back, I don’t want the threads just hanging inside.  So, I knot the threads and use a light dab of glue to seal them against the fabric.  I like to leave the tails long so that they will be sewn into the pocket later on.

 

SIDE ELASTIC POCKETS

With untreated fabric, interfacing would’ve been fused to the part of the Elastic Side Pocket facing the bag, as seen above on the left.  But, since I’m using a heavy treated fabric, I cannot add heat and fuse to it.  So you will see there is no interfacing to indicate the wrong side of the fabric in the video below.

Click the video to watch how to make and attach the Elastic Side Pockets.  Please note the following:

  • For extra durability, I demonstrate how to sew the pocket with an extra triangle at the top of the seam. This helps reinforce that area since it will be pulled on heavily.
  • The size of the rivet used in the triangle has a 6mm cap and is not included in my hardware kit. I thought I would just make it a little different as to not compete with the added embellishment.  This is the same size I use on the zipper pulls as well
  • As an option, you can add in accent fabric with rivets as extra way to highlight pockets. It was an afterthought when making my waxed canvas sample seen here, but I wanted to show you the steps just in case you wanted to add them as well!

 

POP-OUT POCKET

If I am in a clothing store, I will always take a look at it’s bag section.  I like to see what’s popular and if there are any outstanding features.  Well, I saw a 3-D pocket similar to this one that I was determined to figure out on my own because I thought it was a unique way to create one.  With a home machine, my design had to be changed, but the essence is there.   Now, I get to share with all of you how figured out this pocket construction for my bag-makers!

Please click into the video above to view and note the following:

  • When finishing the edge of the Zipper (that’s sewn directly to the Front Panel,) can just zig-zag along the zipper tabs.  But since I primarily work on a straight stitch machine, it would require me to set up a machine.  With the content being so heavy this week, I went with the serger that sits right next to my regular machine.
  • When attaching the Zipper to the Front Panel, I switched feet on the second seam to get a little  closer to the teeth and clear the overlock stitching
  • During the filming, I lost a few segments when attaching the sides down to the Front Panel.  I had to re-film those parts, but the Front Panel was already completed. So you will see that there are no hanging bits of fabric as part if the instructions.  You might  even see some of the Front Strap Tabs.

 

FRONT STRAP TABS

These Front Strap Tabs are for the cross-body and shoulder carrying options.  So all the weight of the bag will be on these spots.  That is why there is so much reinforcement stitching, as well as the added rivets.  You don’t want these ripping out later, so take your time on every stitch!

Click into the video above to watch hoe to attach the Front Strap Tabs and note the following:

  • I work with both my Teflon and Zipper Feet.  I don’t call out the changes, but you can see them in the video
  • For a clean finish, I always like to leave long thread tails and pull them to the back.  With several knots and a dab of glue, those seams will hold just as well as several back-stitches.

Although a hardware press is a great tool, this is one case when a manual setting tool is better than a press.  The dies require at least an 1/8″ clearance around the rivet caps whereas you hardly need any clearance with the tool seen above.  There are some projects where there isn’t enough throat space with a press to install as well.  So don’t ever get rid of those setting tools!

CONGRATULATIONS on finishing this Part 4 beast!  You are more than half-way done now and doing great!  Check back next week for Part 5: Making the Lining.

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

 

Please note, this post contains affiliate links.  Please refer to my Disclosures for additional information.