Tag: hack

Split Hem Sheridan Sweater

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Winter finally hit here in the midwest.  And by winter, I mean the below-freezing temps with wind that just bites at your face!  Since I walk my dog everyday, I’m out in this cold whether I like it or not.  In the mornings, I usually just throw on a sweatshirt over a few layers, but for 2022, I feel like I need “nicer” cozy clothes.  Don’t get me wrong, the dog walks will probably always include a sweatshirt, but I would stay in them all-day long and that’s the cycle I want to break.  It’s been two years of sweatsuits and I’m ready to get out!  So, with this sweater knit I bought last year and  my TNT, Sheridan Sweater, I’m working to get out of this rut.

I know I need more texture in my tops (not just the knit sweatshirt/jersey look) and sweaters would bring it in.  But since I don’t knit or crochet, I have to bring it in through other ways.  For sure, I have to do some thrifting, but I also had this incredible cable knit-look fabric in my stash. I bought this from Fabric.com  after seeing so many other makers use it and it certainly delivers.  The fabric is a really nice thick knit that isn’t too heavy but has the feel of a real sweater.  While the inside “stuffing” frayed a bit depending where you cut the fabric, I was able to use my regular sewing machine, serger, and even cover-stitch to make this top.

This is the fourth time I’ve made the Sheridan Sweater, a pattern by Hey June Handmade.  You can check out two I made on this post.  I’m a big fan of this pattern and really love the funnel neck view.  I’m always the “cold” one in the family and I like to have my neck covered, but I’m not a fan of turtlenecks.  My skin is pretty sensitive with fabric textures, so I always like some kind of loose covering like a cowl seen here in my Halifax Hoodie or this funnel neck.  Since I already have two Sheridans that are identical with the exception of color, I knew this one had to be different.  In addition to the fabric, I also hacked the pattern to make an uneven split hem, which is perfect for to half-tuck into my jeans.

These are all of the modifications on my size 10, view B Sheridan:

  • Increased the funnel neck by 1/2″
  • Omitted interfacing on the neck facing (fabric is thick enough)
  • Lengthened full front by 1″ and the back by 2 1/2″
  • Marked 3 1/2″ from the bottom front for the split hem
  • Used 3/8″ single fold with cover-stitching for hem
  • Made a 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment (typical for me with HJ patterns)
  • Narrowed out the sleeve 2″ on each side (4″ total) for a less formal balloon sleeve

I was “winging” the split hem (which I kinda regret now) and wished I added more length to the hem and especially at the side seams for the split.  While this isn’t the prettiest cover-stitching, you can’t really tell from the outside (thank goodness!) it worked out in the end.  I used some Mettler Seraflex to help tack down the hem right at the split (on the side seams) and after using my cover-stitch, realized I should’ve just used it on the hem this whole time — Lesson Learned! It’s a great thread that has stretch which you use with a straight stitch.  Since the hem is loose and not getting much strain, the Seraflex would’ve been a good alternative to cover-stitching.  I also used it in the cuffs (for less bulk than my serger) and also for tacking down the funnel neck to the facing.

Despite the small regret with the hem, I’m really pleased with this Sheridan Sweater.  It has the comfy-cozy, cable knit look I needed and it’s VERY warm too!  This was a great wardrobe addition  while I brace this bitter cold!  Do you like this knit-look without being a real sweater?  I think I may have to invest in some more of this fabric!

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read my disclosures, here.

Tutorial: Make a Simplified Rolled Handle with Less Layers

If you are looking to really make a bag look CLASSY, a rolled handle can instantly add that sophistication.  That’s why I added them into my Colleen Tote Bag pattern!  It adds more durability and strength than flat handles and the round style makes it SO much more comfortable in the hands!

The instructions for rolled handles in the Colleen are manageable on home machines….as long as you are going through fabric and not other substrates.  EIGHT layers of canvas can be managed with a heavy duty needle and increased stitch length.  However, if you want to make the same kind of handles with cork, vinyl or leather….you can pretty much forget about it — unless you have an industrial machine.  Well, now, you can still have these type of handles with your DOMESTIC MACHINE!!!  This tutorial will take you through an alternative method to make rolled handles with only 4 layers  — perfect for those thicker raw edge substrates!

Tutorial

Please note this rolled handle example is for the Erin Backpack, but the same technique would be the same for the Colleen Tote.

1. Cut the width of your handle 2x what you want the finished ends to be.  In this case, the ends need to be 1″ wide and the cork is cut 2″ wide.  (If you are making the Colleen Tote, you would want your handle to be 3″ wide and not 6″.)

 

2. Mark the center of the strap lengthwise

 

3. Add a very thin layer of glue on each side of the line you marked.

 

4. Fold each long side into the line you drew and clip to secure.  Make sure the sides meet each other in the center.  Wait until all glue has dried.

 

5. Mark how far up you would like the roll to start/stop.  For the Erin Backpack, I marked 1 1/2″ from each short end.  For the Colleen, it would be 2 1/2″.  Sew the Strap together 1/8″ along the folded sides and then crossing over at your mark.

 

6. Place a thin layer of glue along the center fabric seam,  in-between the top-stitching.  If you are making the Colleen Tote, this is when you would add your cording.  Since this handle is more narrow for the Erin, I’ve omitted any cording.

 

7. Fold long sides together , encasing the fabric seam but only in-between markings.  This created the “roll” of the handle.  Clip in place and allow to dry completely.

*Note how the handle ends have the fabric seam exposed lengthwise.  The glue and stitching will keep the strap intact but this is why this method is meant for non-fraying substrates only.

 

8. Top-stitch along the double-fold side in between markings. (You may need to increase stitch-length to handle the extra layers.) Backstitch well at the start and end of your stitching.

 

9. Double check that all stitching is secure.

 

10.  Optional – Add a rivet right above the end markings to keep the Rolled Handle extra secure.

 

Congratulations!  You have a rolled handle ready for any bag!!!

 

This is how the handle looks placed on the back of the Erin Backpack as part of my Sew Along you can find here.

 

I hope you enjoyed this easier alternative method to making rolled handles with your favorite cork, leather, or vinyl!!!

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Cristy

Minikin Sidewinder Review – Plus Drop-In Lining Hack

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It is no secret I love Sew Sweetness patterns by Sara Lawson.  I’ve come to really trust her instructions and I love all the innovative ways Sara constructs her bags.  She has written quite a few patterns and has a nice variety of large bags down to small accessories.  You can read about a few of my makes below:

  • Aeroplane Bag – here
  • Crimson and Clover Traincases – here and here
  • Trompe le Monde Bag – here
  • Appaloosa Bag – here

Right before Halloween, Sew Sweetness released a whole collection of 12 small accessory pouches and bags called the Minikins.  These were all designed to be quick sews which use mostly fat quarters.  There are many bags patterns out there which can take several hours and even days to complete.  Sometimes you just need to be able to complete a project in one sitting to feel accomplished and these definitely do just that.

The real bonus is that this pattern collection also comes with 12 step-by-step videos!  How amazing is that?!?  These are great if you are a novice or even like me, who may need help around a few steps.  It’s great to watch them just to pick up some of Sara’s tricks.

It was so hard to pick which Minikin I would make first.   But since I was heading into heavy craft market mode, I wanted this project to be THE quickest.  So, I selected the Sidewinder because of the curved-no seam-bottom.   This looked perfect for someone short on time and you just need non-directional fabric.  (For these unicorns, I did piece together the exterior because of the direction.)

For all of my Sidewinders, I used the recommended Annie’s Soft and Stable, but also interfaced all the quilt cotton (exterior and interior with Pellon SF101 for added structure.)  The Pellon SF101 on the exterior fabric helps prevent extra stretching and puckering when basting with the Soft and Stable.

For all of the gussets, I used either cork or faux leather, all found in the Sew Sweetness shop.  It’s nice to find so many substrates all in one place.  (Gotta love that flat-rate shipping too!)  It helps amplify the bag design and really make them look professional with cork or faux leather.  The corners get a little tricky, but you can muscle through it and use Sara’s technique in her video.

This pattern and some of the other Minikins make use of a drop-in lining.  This is when the lining and bag exterior are constructed separately and then joined together (usually through top-stitching around the zipper.)  Even with all the bags as I have made….I’m terrible at attaching  drop-in linings!  I can’t get my seams to match up so my stitching consistently catches all of the lining…grrr…  I tried pins and even glue basting the linings.  But when I have to maneuver around end of the zippers, something always manages to shift.  I’ve also spent an absurd amount of time trying to hand-sew in the linings…and this girl just doesn’t have time for that!  So, that’s why I devised my own lining hack.

{Edited to reference the step #’s per Sidewinder instructions.}

In step #5, skip the top-stitching.  Complete step #7 per instructions, stopping before you top-stitch the Lining Side Panel down.  With left over scraps, I cut approximately (2) 3″x1.5″ rectangles and folded each in half lengthwise.  Each rectangle was centered and placed behind the zipper openings as shown in the red oval. Continue with the instructions to top-stitch the Lining Side Panel, along with these extra rectangles.

This method provides me with about 1/2″ of extra lining for my stitching to catch on either side of the zipper.  The rest of the lining and exterior are completed as instructed.

As personal preference, I glue baste the lining to just barely covering my zipper stitches and use clips to hold them into place until the glue dries.

 There is no such thing as too many clips, right?!?

With a larger needle (16,) I top-stitch around the zipper with the exterior panels facing out.  You can see how it catches the lining below.  Using a thread to match the lining helps to hide any wonkiness 😉

I use this method to have one line of stitching versus the method in the pattern.  Personally, I like the cleaner look, but there is no structural difference.  I’ve seen others create two parallel lines of stitching for a nice detail as well.

 You can see at the zipper ends, my sewing isn’t perfect, but I am able to always secure the entire lining no matter how much wrestling I have to do with a bag. The extra lining fabric give me a nice cushion!

I finished the Sidewinder with just a rivet to add a little extra polish to the pouch.  A little hardware goes a long way to make your project look professional.

This is great fast sew that has so much visual appeal for being a “pouch.”  It definitely set my products apart from other craft market vendors and I’m SO happy for that!  Check out a few of my different versions below.


Project Details:

 

Have you tried out the Minikins yet?  I hope you like my drop-in lining hack and let me know how it works for you,  if you decide to try it out!

 

Keep Sewing Along,

Cristy

 

Please note this post DOES include affiliate links and I have received the pattern free as part of being a Sew Sweetness bag tester.  I was not required to write a blog post and you know all words are my own.