Category: Bags

Introducing the Erin Backpack Sewing Pattern

The Erin Backpack sewing pattern is here!!!  This new  S P A C I O U S  bag is ready to be made out of your favorite sturdy fabrics. With a design full of pockets, Erin will be your perfect travel companion — whether for you or for the whole family!  Wherever life takes you, the Erin Backpack will be ready!  You can grab the digital pattern right here.

It’s been awhile since I’ve released a sewing pattern.  ‘Just about a full year has passed by, but my excuse is — of course, 2020.  With the pandemic, and social unrest of this country, I was left with very little motivation to design while so many people were suffering.  Like many of you, my home life has been flipped upside down and it seems like we have a new normalcy rather than a return to 2019 type of “normal.”

It’s taken me some time, but I got some motivation in the fall to make a prototype of the Erin thanks to the Sew Pink Blog Hop you can read here.  Once I made that bag, I was feeling the flow and really wanted to ride the wave of bag-making and designing again!

Inspiration

Original “Erin” Backpack

I made my first Erin (before it even had a name!) for my cousin over a year ago.  She was looking for a large backpack for her growing family and wanted something unique and custom…with all the pockets, of course!  This was right when 90s fanny packs were reemerging and that half-moon shape was really influencing bag trends.  I wanted to test myself and see if I could design a backpack with that half-circle lid while stretching the body into a full-size backpack (since that style was missing out of my line-up.)  And that’s how the Erin Backpack was born!

Swapped out the Strap for Heavy Duty Webbing

Namesake

As many of you know I name all of my bags after my nieces. This bag is no exception. It is named after my incredibly sweet niece out in Oregon.  One of my first memories was a camping trip to Cape Lookout on the coast.  My husband and I were only married a few months and I really didn’t know this side of the family since they lived far away. Well, we had SUCH a great time out west and was welcomed with such open arms. This bag reminds me of our time on the coast — especially the waxed canvas version that definitely wants to be out on an adventurous hike with those HUGE northwest trees!

Sewing Level

While the Erin Backpack is made for the everyday, the complexity of its construction leaves it for more intermediate sewists. With the half moon shape of the lid and base, the walls are attached with Y-seams. There is nothing to be scared of….Y-seams are just when 3 seams come together and do NOT form a right angle. However, when you throw in thicker bag layers, it can be tricky to wrangle the seams into place.

Also, the pattern calls for the use of leather, vinyl, or cork.  These can be tricky substrates to use if you are not familiar.  You can check out my Tips on Sewing Vinyl here, which have many of the same suggestions I would offer to leather and cork. But my main tips would be to:

  • Use a Teflon or Walking foot to stop the presser foot from sticking to the fabric.
  • Make sure you have some heavy duty needles, sizes 14-18, handy to handle the layers
  • Increase your stitch-length as you work through thicker layers – Hand crank if needed
  • Use washi or scotch tape under your Zipper foot to prevent sticking
  • If sticking continues, you can also place tissue paper in between the leather and your presser foot

Bag Features

  • Body – A distinctive half cylinder shape that melts into the body and is spacious enough to use as overnight travel backpack or even a diaper bag!

  • Zippered Main Compartment – Everything remains safe while accessible with a large opening. The lid can fold back allowing you to see almost everything inside. It’s perfect for staying organized!

  • 10…yes, 10 pockets! – With Zippers, elastic, snap and slip pockets, your bases are covered!

  • Converts from a Backpack to a Shoulder Bag – By switching the swivel clasps from the rear to the front and releasing it from the back rectangle ring, you have a new bag!

While not a part of the pattern, I added these leather accents to the elastic pockets with the scrap from the zipper plate.

  • Key Fob – I always love this feature to find your keys – especially in a very roomy bag!

  • Accessory Strap – This is another simple feature that can be used to hold sunglasses, a pen or a place to wrap your sanitizer onto. I love the way it visually breaks up the space along the lining as well!

  • Adjustable Strap with D-Ring – To be a convertible bag, you need a long adjustable strap.  The pattern calls for a 60″ long strap, but does have instructions for piecing a longer one together (if needed.) With the popularity of wireless ear pods, I’ve been seeing this D-Ring feature on all the high-end designer bags. It’s another simple feature to include, but can be so helpful as you are traveling. Check out how to make The Tiny Sophia Bag to hold your ear pod case.

Hardware

With all of the options in the Erin Backpack, comes quite a bit of Hardware.  I’m a big fan of rivets for their professional finish and have added snaps into the mix as well.  If you don’t want to source your own, I’ve found high quality options which you can grab a in my shop!

The kit includes:
(4) 1 1/2″ Triangle Rings
(2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
(1) 1 1/2″ Rectangle Ring
(1) 1 1/2″ Strap Slider
(1) 1/2″ Swivel Clasp
(1) 1/2″ D-Ring
(3) Sets of 12.5 mm Double-Cap Spring Snaps
(5) Sets of Medium Double-Cap Rivets (9mm cap x 8mm post)
(20) Sets of Small Double-Cap Rivets (8mm cap x 6mm post)

The sewing pattern does NOT include instructions for hardware installation or the setting tools.

  • Rivets – But you can check out my Rivet Installation by Hand video here and I recommend this rivet setting tool by Tandy (if you want to hand set them.)
  • Spring Snaps – You can check Snap installation at the 30 second mark in this Instagram video for help.   For the snaps, I recommend this tool which is used in the video.  It comes with a few sizes, but 633 would handle the snaps in my hardware kit.

Featured Bags

BUTTERFLIES –

  • Main Fabric :  Ruby Star Society Tiger Fly Canvas
  • Lining: Mystery Polyester Railroad fabric leftover from a skirt
  • Accent Fabric: Faux Leather from Sew Sweetness
  • Zippers: Antique Brass Coil on Black Tape from Emmaline Bags
  • Hardware: Triangle Rings from By Annie’s and the rest from Emmaline Bags (same as the kit for sale)

OLIVE –

  • Main Fabric :  Robert Kaufman Waxed Canvas from Sew to Speak.  You can also find it here.
  • Lining: Mystery Polyester Railroad fabric leftover from a skirt
  • Accent Fabric:  Thrifted leather (same as from my beloved quilted duffle bag.)
  • Zippers: Metal look nylon Bronze with Chocolate tape from My Handmade Space (get on the mailing list for lots of great coupons!)
  • Hardware: Triangle Rings from By Annie’s and the rest from Emmaline Bags (same as the kit for sale)

MANY THANKS

As always, I thank all of you for encouraging me to publish my patterns!  This, by far, is my longest and most complicated bag pattern to date.  I like to challenge myself to more intermediate and advanced sewing and I know many of you are the same.  But my group of testers from all different bag-making levels were able to nail this bag.  (I’ll be showing off their makes in another blog post!)  Their help was absolutely instrumental in clarifying steps and adding in more information to help you along.  I hope you enjoy the #ErinBackpack!

Watch out for a sew-along in the next few months! 😉

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read my full disclosures, here.

Emma Stadium Bag Hacks with Twill Tape

The best part about writing patterns is coming back and hacking them! I’m constantly inspired by the runways and the latest fashion trends. When I wrote this Emma Stadium Bag hack for Sewn Magazine (April 2020,) I noticed how straps were becoming the main focus on bags. They were produced in different fabric from the main bodies and were made in all sorts of distinctive colors and contrasting patterns…making the straps REALLY stand out.  Many brands were  offering customization with mix and match options which help to make a bag feel like it was made for you. I love a good statement strap as seen with my Guitar Strap Tutorial here and my play on a fringed Festival Bag here.  Needless to say, I couldn’t resist making my own designer inspired version.  Can you guess the high-fashion label that was my muse?  Now, you can really make a full personalized bag with the Twill Tape hack below!

Materials Required

Cutting

  • Cut fabric and vinyl per instructions minus the strap pieces.
  • Cut (2) 7 1/2” lengths of the Twill Tape. Heat seal each end of the tape with the lighter. Set Aside.

Strap

  • With the remaining Twill Tape, heat seal each end of the tape with the lighter.  *If you are using a 100% cotton tape, you won’t be able to heat seal.  Sew 1/8″ at each raw edge to keep it from unraveling.  Back-stitch well.
  • Follow the instructions in the pattern to thread the strap through the 1 1/2” slider and (2) 1 1/2” Swivel Clasps.
  • Use (2) Rivets to secure each end of the strap (4 rivets total) or sew into place.  This video can help you through adding rivets.

Pocket

  • This was omitted to let the twill tape stand on its own and not detract from the overall look.

Zipper Top

  • Make with the SHORT D-Ring tab option.  Although the photo shows the vinyl already attached, you will only have the Zipper Top completed at this point.

Vinyl Bottom

  • After marking the center of the vinyl bottom on the wrong side of the vinyl, mark 3/4” out on either side of the center. These lines will be used as sides for the Twill Tape.
  • Flip the vinyl over and line up Twill Tape within the markings. Top-stitch along the Twill Tape 1/16” into place. Optional – Add another row of stitching down the center of the Twill Tape. Repeat on other side of the body.
    • TIP: Sew down the sides of the Twill Tape in the same direction to avoid possible shifting.
  • Finish sewing the rest of the vinyl bottom, making sure to align the Twill tape when sewing the bottom seam.
  • With the Twill Tape facing up, sew the seam allowance to the body between 1/8″ – 1/4″ from the seam.
  • Finish the bag and wipe away any markings on the vinyl.

D-Ring Accent Tabs

I love the look of extra texture on the Zipper Top and these tabs provide such nice details…especially with the addition of rivets.  However, if you tried to make only these long tabs with fabric, they would pull and go vertical when worn.   The D-ring would also be sliding all across the tab and the weight distribution on the strap would definitely be off.  So when I was trying to decide how I could I could have the look, it dawned on me, that I could literally combine the techniques of the short tab and these riveted accent one.   I developed this “double D-ring” method to have the visual appeal AND have the security of a shorter tab.
  • To make, take the 13”x1” strip of fabric –
    • (Bottom and middle strips) Fold each long side toward the center, wrong-sides together making 1/2” single-fold tape.  Press well
    • (Top strip) Top-stitch 1/16” along each long edge
  • Cut in half length-wise so there are (2) 6 1/2” tabs. With each tab, fold each short end inward with wrong sides together by 1/2”.   Press.
  • Fold the entire tab in half, wrong sides together.  Press.
  • Glue down each 1/2” folded end.
  • Slide the Accent Tab equally through the 1/2” D-Ring with right side facing out.
  • With the D-Ring tab fully extended, mark the Accent Tab placement so it is parallel to the zipper and next to, but not pushing into the D-Ring.  Glue the Accent Tab into place.
  • From the edge of the tab, mark at 3/8” and 1 1/4” for rivet placement.
  • Use the fabric hole punch to cut through the Accent Tab, Main Fabric, and Lining.  Attach rivets using your preferred method.  You can check out this hand application video here.
  • Repeat on the other side of the same Accent Tab. Then repeat for the second Accent Tab. You will attach 8 rivets altogether on the Accent Tabs.
  • Attach the Strap to the D-Rings and you are ready to rock out in style!  How do you like the D-ring illusion?
If you are looking for other ideas to get the most out of your Emma Stadium Bag pattern, check out this post on how to add a leather hook and the Intro post here with tester versions.   Happy Sewing! Cristy  
This post may contain affiliate links which help keep this website and content rolling.  You can read about all of my Disclosures here.

Hardware || Install Rivets by Hand

Of all the things I’m asked about in my sewing, I get the most questions about hardware.  It’s such an easy way to take a project to the next level like with the Megan Bucket Bag and Claire Foldover Clutch hack.  ‘Just an extra touch of metal can really take a bag from “homemade” to “handcrafted.”  That’s exactly what I was looking for in my bag creations.  Before I got a “fancy” hardware press, I installed all my rivets by hand for at least a year.  And even with the press, I still set them manually based on my needs.  Below is a quick video to show you how to install rivets and lots of my personal tips as well!

Megan Bucket Bag

Claire Fold-over Clutch

 

Materials

First, you need the right materials.  Below are the materials and links (some affiliate) which I use in the video.

  • Steel Jeweler’s Bench – This is a small but mighty block and handles all of my own personal hardware needs.  I used to set rivets on the basement floor (which you shouldn’t do, but we’ll discuss that later) and this block is such a game changer so I can use my own cutting table and not have to go down two flights of steps.
  • Fabric Hole Punch Pliers – This type of punch plier is by far my favorite.  The bed of the tool where you place your fabric is plastic vs. metal.  Some people like the metal bed because it will last longer, but I MUCH prefer the plastic bed because you will get better cuts and the actual hole bit will stay sharp longer.  Yes, the bed will begin to wear away but there is a replacement and each one will last you a long time…probably longer than the bit.
  • Rivet Setter – My preferred tool is this larger 9mm one because I personally use rivets with caps this large.  This will be able to set smaller ones too!
  • Concave Anvil – Since I’m using double-cap rivets, a concave anvil is needed to keep the shape  of the other cap, else it will completely flatten.
  • Hammer – I’ve used a few different hammers – small and large and I really like this Fiskar’s one.  The grip is comfortable and the 12 oz head allows for a good solid strike.  You can certainly use a mallet instead, but I’ve had good luck with just a hammer.
  • Double-Cap Rivets – These are the “small” rivets with an 8 mm head and 6 mm stem.  I use this size the most for decorative application and will move up to a longer stem for thick folded straps.  I prefer double to single cap rivets purely for inventory purposes to handle all of my needs.

Process

In the video, I take you through both leather and fabric applications which are pretty much the same.  I included a few tips but want to elaborate a little more based on my own experience.

  • Work at counter-height – For me, my results are MUCH better when I work at counter-height (while standing) versus working on the floor.  I know when you first start out, the concrete basement or garage floor might be the hardest surface you have and this is definitely how I started out with rivet application.  But there is something about leaning over a project that increases the arc (maybe?) of my swing and I ended up with a lot of crooked, ill-placed rivets.  So, if you can, I highly suggest working on an old table – over one of the legs for extra stability.

  • Select the right size rivet for EACH project – Initially, you may get the urge to just buy one size to fit all of your needs, but there is a reason there are SO many difference size combinations.  While the cap is more for aesthetics, the stem length is key in a proper application.  I recommend about 3-5mm stem longer than the thickness of your project when you finger-press down on it.  You want the stem to be long enough to mushroom into the cap.  Else, your project may pull apart later with use.  But you don’t want it so long that it could “over-mushroom” and damage the cap.  The extra length also provides more opportunity for a crooked installation.  So, that’s why you want to minimize your risk.  6mm and 8mm posts were pretty much all I used for a long time and then I expanded out later when I was working with thicker substrates

  • Hold Setter down at base close to rivet – This provides the most control so the setter is aligned and straight over the rivet.  If you hold the setter too high, the impact of the hammer may move the setter and you could get an unsightly imprint on the cap.
  • Spin the rivet between your fingers to check for a proper application (1:18 in video) – You know that the rivet is completely installed when you can’t rotate it between your fingers.  It shouldn’t be able to move at all.  If the rivet is still loose or you can still see the stem, go back and install again.

Abbey Convertible Backpack

If you do have a crooked installation or accidentally mis-aligned the setter on a rivet cap, I’ll show you how to remove a rivet with next week’s blog post.  Please share below if you have even more tips to help along fellow readers!

 

Enjoy!

 

Cristy

 

 

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read about all of my disclosure here.

Megan Bucket Bag – Sewing Pattern

She is HERE!!!!!  What started as just a fun experiment in bag design (just for myself!) has turned into the latest new pattern, the Megan Bucket Bag.  This has been a labor of love with over a year passing since I first made it…..and then an extra month delay as the country locked down and I turned my efforts to PPE.  At times, it seemed like this pattern would never be published, but with all of your encouragement and an incredible tester team, it is available today in my shop!

Namesake

This bag is named after another one of my sweet nieces, Megan.  Every time I would see her, she always carried around a large purse and I knew a generously sized bucket bag would HAVE to be her’s!  She was always an avid reader and so this bag can carry around a small library if needed.  Megan loves  theater and has SUCH a beautiful voice.  It only made sense to have plenty of mix and match bag options for whatever “role” would come next.  Like my dear Megan, this bag is practical yet has just enough edge to stand out from the crowd.

Background

I’ve made nine different versions of the Megan Bucket Bag, starting with the OG, made with buttery taupe cowhide, which you can read about here.  This is STILL my everyday bag with the neutral color and has really held up well – as you would expect from genuine leather!  However, in order to turn this design into a bag pattern, I knew I had to edit it down.  For me, this is the hard part of creating patterns.  I had to adapt all of the features so that you could also make it in fabric, in leather, or a mix of both! This was another prototype version you can check out here.  This was my first fabric version I made while, of course, holding onto the leather details.  I still love that extra thin piece of leather on top of the strap….I’ll have to remember that for my next Megan bag!

Features

After teaching many bag classes and workshops, I know that many students want to make professional looking bags, but don’t necessarily have all the right equipment – including a heavy duty sewing machine.  So my goal with the construction, was to use some alternative techniques to take the bulk out of bag-making.  This helps to think outside the box so you can make bags with a wider array of equipment…not just industrial grade machines. “The Megan Bucket Bag is a fresh take on the classic slouchy bag silhouette, but with a more pronounced cube shape. The lines are clean with side seams hidden by overlays and rivets. There are two different views whether you want to make the Megan out of one fabric, or if you would like to use a raw-edge accent fabric to add a little more depth to the look.  With this pattern, you will learn different strap making techniques to take the bulk out of your fabric and gain ways to present a welt zipper pocket with plates or a cover. You will also learn an off-set bag technique for the overlays that won’t compromise your side seam stitching. There are plenty of options with snaps and the use of accent fabric for you to mix and match for your perfect bag.” This is a pattern for you to learn:
  • 2 -layer straps
  • Off-set overlay sewing to keep the integrity of the side seams
  • 4 different ways to present a welt zipper pocket with 2 plate options, a cover, or left bare.
  • Slip Pocket with an overlay
  • Connectors to help hold sides together
View A was designed for a single fabric and perfect for a newer bag-maker who wants to just use canvas.  This is a great way to start and learn new purse techniques without having to deal with other substrates.  However, this same version can be used with a single faux leather and still have a striking look. This view has a handy outside pocket with a cover to keep the look smooth and sleek but still has other details like the strap loops to add more interest. View B uses an accent fabric such as leather, suede, cork or vinyl that can be left raw edged without fraying.  These substrates are great looks to add more depth and texture to a bag.  The accent fabric is incorporated on to the side overlays, strap, and is used as decorative plating against the zipper pocket and slip pocket.  However, you can also swap out the accent fabric with some webbing to speed up your project. This pattern was written with mid-weight accent fabrics in mind with 2-3mm thickness to have enough structure in the strap.  However, I know there are a number of other fabrics you may want to use that are lighter and thinner – especially many types of cork.  Consider adding a second layer of accent fabric to the back of the strap as shown below.  Play around and see what you like!

Hardware

The main aesthetic element to the Megan Bucket Bag is the side overlay with a row of bright beautiful rivets.  Although I’ve used rivets for a long time with my bags, they were only in the patterns as alternation options for securing straps and such.  This time, the rivets are the featured stars and are not just for looks, but also for structural purposes.  They help secure the strap in place around the gorgeous O-rings.  This give such a strong, yet delicate look. To help hold the shape of the bag and keep contents safe, four sets of snaps are added to the lining.  They help keep the cube shape of the Megan while still staying slouchy like a good bucket bag does.  The purse can then be easily expanded by just releasing the snaps. Although the pattern includes the use of rivets and snaps, there are no actual instructions to install them.  Since there are SO many different types of hardware out there with multiplied by different tastes of the sewist, there was no way to include instructions for everything.  Rivets can be single sided and double-sided.  They can be shaped like pyramids, domes, or flat like burrs.  Snaps also have a number of  different sizes and features as well.  I prefer “spring” double cap snaps, but you can use magnetic or even sew-in snaps too!  This pattern allows you to use YOUR preference of material.   But just like with interfacing, you must remember to follow manufacturer’s instructions.  I’ll be showing my preferred methods of rivet and snap installations all next week, so keep an eye out!!! There are truly SO many different ways to make the Megan Bucket Bag.  If you are ready to make your own, click below for the pattern AND the hardware kits….it doesn’t get any easier, right?

|| Click HERE to shop the Megan Bucket Bag Pattern || 

|| Click HERE to shop The Hardware Kits ||

Project Details:

Tester Inspiration

There is nothing better than seeing all of your makes with my patterns.  Here are even more great versions from my testers to inspire your Megan Bucket Bag:
  • Jean widened out the cork on her bag to show it off.
  • Jen’s faux leather version is so professional and chic.
  • Loni used webbing for the accent on View B.
  • Loni stepped up her game with this all leather version.
  • Maggie used this unique fabric with metal woven in. I bet the reflection on it is so cool.
  • Maggie also made this fun version of View B with yellow leather.
  • Mallory’s bag looks like it’s sitting in a store – so beautiful.
  • You gotta love waxed canvas in such a fun color. Great job, Nela!
  • How perfect is this neutral bag by Sherrene?
I cannot wait to see all of your makes!!! Happy Sewing, Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my full disclosure here.

FREE Shuffle Card Holder Pattern

For my Newsletter subscribers, the Shuffle Card Holder isn’t a new pattern to you.  But in light of our current Covid-19 shelter-in-place environment, I’d like to offer the Shuffle Card Holder pattern completely FREE without having to sign-up for anything.  This is a quick and easy project for raw-edge substrates and is a great stash-buster for all of the little bits of cork, leather, suede or vinyl you may have lying around.  If you have ever wanted to learn how to sew on these substrates, now is the time!  A small project like the Shuffle will make things bite-sized and manageable too.

The Shuffle Card Holder is designed with 3 pockets.  There are two in the front — perfect for an ID and debit card.  But there is also a third pocket which is hidden and a great spot for a little stash of cash and even a key!  The front and back are made from a single folded piece of fabric with all sides left raw.

For a more polished look, you can take the extra minute to add some top-stitching at all of the pocket openings.  It adds a nice finishing to make the card holder extra special.

TIP:  Use a Walking Foot for nice even stitches, especially on vinyl or cork where a regular presser foot could stick.

I love using the Shuffle Card Holder when I’m switching between purses and especially when moving into a smaller bag.  It goes perfectly with the Emma Stadium Bag to keep my money hidden at public sporting events and I also love using it with the Kelly Waist Bag to keep things as light as possible.

Emma Stadium Bag by Love You Sew

As we spend more time walking and taking bike rides, the cardholder is perfect for just slipping into your back pocket or in a bike pouch.

Kelly Waist Bag and Clutch

This is also a great way to present a gift card – especially to those who are working essential jobs or just a way to let someone know you are thinking about them at this time.  You can even pair it up with The Tiny Sophia Bag for a complete on-the-go gift set!

||    Click HERE for the FREE Shuffle Card Holder pattern!    ||

 

Project Details:

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please visit my Disclosures page for info.