Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! We are now on Part 5: Make the Lining. If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:
With this part, we will tackle the entire lining and even assemble it!
Zipper pocket
The interior Welt Zipper Pocket is constructed the same way as the outside one, except without the Zipper Plate. So, we don’t have to go through all of the steps again. If you need a fresher, you can head back to Part 4.
With this pocket, there is no basting, just a regular topstitch to secure the zipper to the lining (as shown above.) .
For some more visual interest, you can always add another Zipper Plate or add in some rivets. I placed one on with side of the zipper opening, 3/8″ from each end AFTER pocket has been closed up. This helps add a little more security to the pocket lining.
You may have noticed that I added in a branding tag. This is not apart of the instructions, so I skipped it in the video. But if you would like to add one in this same spot, I sew the tag after finishing the Welt Zipper Pocket. The leather stamped tags are from ViVi in Oz.
Slip Pocket, Elastic Pockets and assembly
The rest of the Lining construction and assembly can be found in the video above. You can view the different sections timestamped as follows:
Slip Pocket (00:10)
Elastic Pockets (01:35 )
Accessory Strap (04:25)
Key Fob (04:58)
Assembly (05: 06)
Items to note:
You can get extra hardware help by clicking on these posts -> Rivets -> Spring Snaps
May need to adjust the length of elastic based on what type/style you are using. You want to have enough pulled in so that the Elastic pocket is bunched up enough to equal the length of the Front Lining.
DON’T skip the 2nd line of baste stitching for the gathering. It makes life MUCH easier –especially when trying to gather stiffened fabric from the interfacing.
If you would like to take the option of adding rivets to the Elastic Pockets, make sure to NOT punch the holes directly on a seam.
Yes, the Front Lining IS suppose to be shorter than the Back Lining. This takes the width of the zipper into account and incorporates it as part of the backpack’s front wall.
Can you taste the finish? The very last of the Erin Backpack sew along comes later this week, Part 6: Final Assembly. I hope you have been enjoying the process. Don’t forget to use #erinbackpack #erinbackpacksewalong and #loveyousewpatterns on Social Media! I’m so excited to see your finished bags!
Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! We are now on Part 4: Create the Front Panel. If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:
With this part, we are tackling the entire Front Panel with four different pockets. It seems overwhelming, but I’ve broken down all the pockets into 4 different short videos so you can work at your own pace.
WELT Zipper POCKET
At this point, the Front Panel is the only pattern piece left that hasn’t been basted to foam. This is added later because creating the Front Welt Pocket through foam would produce so much bulk and be very difficult to work with. I love all of you too much to put you through the extra wrestling and time spent trimming back foam! Ha!
I know you will ask me about the zipper pulls used on my bag 😉 These zippers are from MyHandmadeSpace and yes, I made the tabs myself! They are approximately 3/8″ x 4″ folded in half and secured with a seam straight up the center. I added a rivet to balance out the look with the rest of my bag. These are SUCH a great option to really personalize your bag. I’m so glad I bought them as a stash option!
Now let’s get to work. Click into the video about to watch how the Welt Zipper Pocket is created. Please note the following from the video:
I am using “Craft” Tape as an alternative to Wonder Tape. This is only 1/8″ wide, but is permanent. With the coating on the canvas, I wanted to use a tape that was a little stronger than Wonder Tape. So, to avoid human error, I like to add this directly to the zipper tape first, and not to the lining.
While adding on the Zipper Plate, I used glue instead of Wonder Tape. Again, I was looking for something stronger I could sew through and unfortunately, Craft Tape cannot be sewn through. (Your needle would gum up.)
I’m adding the rivets earlier than the instructions. I don’t know why….but I started going by memory without checking instructions and went out of order. (This is what I get for not checking!) There is not a huge difference if you add them before closing the pocket lining or waiting until after the foam is basted on. Per the instruction, my intent to add them post foam, was to have extra anchor points against the foam to keep it from separating with the Front Panel. But there are many other points anchoring the foam to the main fabric with the rest of the pockets and Front Strap Tabs.
TIP: When I sew through an accent fabric and want to minimize punctures, I like to pull the threads through for a clean continuous line of stitches. However, from the back, I don’t want the threads just hanging inside. So, I knot the threads and use a light dab of glue to seal them against the fabric. I like to leave the tails long so that they will be sewn into the pocket later on.
SIDE ELASTIC POCKETS
With untreated fabric, interfacing would’ve been fused to the part of the Elastic Side Pocket facing the bag, as seen above on the left. But, since I’m using a heavy treated fabric, I cannot add heat and fuse to it. So you will see there is no interfacing to indicate the wrong side of the fabric in the video below.
Click the video to watch how to make and attach the Elastic Side Pockets. Please note the following:
For extra durability, I demonstrate how to sew the pocket with an extra triangle at the top of the seam. This helps reinforce that area since it will be pulled on heavily.
The size of the rivet used in the triangle has a 6mm cap and is not included in my hardware kit. I thought I would just make it a little different as to not compete with the added embellishment. This is the same size I use on the zipper pulls as well
As an option, you can add in accent fabric with rivets as extra way to highlight pockets. It was an afterthought when making my waxed canvas sample seen here, but I wanted to show you the steps just in case you wanted to add them as well!
POP-OUT POCKET
If I am in a clothing store, I will always take a look at it’s bag section. I like to see what’s popular and if there are any outstanding features. Well, I saw a 3-D pocket similar to this one that I was determined to figure out on my own because I thought it was a unique way to create one. With a home machine, my design had to be changed, but the essence is there. Now, I get to share with all of you how figured out this pocket construction for my bag-makers!
Please click into the video above to view and note the following:
When finishing the edge of the Zipper (that’s sewn directly to the Front Panel,) can just zig-zag along the zipper tabs. But since I primarily work on a straight stitch machine, it would require me to set up a machine. With the content being so heavy this week, I went with the serger that sits right next to my regular machine.
When attaching the Zipper to the Front Panel, I switched feet on the second seam to get a little closer to the teeth and clear the overlock stitching
During the filming, I lost a few segments when attaching the sides down to the Front Panel. I had to re-film those parts, but the Front Panel was already completed. So you will see that there are no hanging bits of fabric as part if the instructions. You might even see some of the Front Strap Tabs.
FRONT STRAP TABS
These Front Strap Tabs are for the cross-body and shoulder carrying options. So all the weight of the bag will be on these spots. That is why there is so much reinforcement stitching, as well as the added rivets. You don’t want these ripping out later, so take your time on every stitch!
Click into the video above to watch hoe to attach the Front Strap Tabs and note the following:
I work with both my Teflon and Zipper Feet. I don’t call out the changes, but you can see them in the video
For a clean finish, I always like to leave long thread tails and pull them to the back. With several knots and a dab of glue, those seams will hold just as well as several back-stitches.
Although a hardware press is a great tool, this is one case when a manual setting tool is better than a press. The dies require at least an 1/8″ clearance around the rivet caps whereas you hardly need any clearance with the tool seen above. There are some projects where there isn’t enough throat space with a press to install as well. So don’t ever get rid of those setting tools!
CONGRATULATIONS on finishing this Part 4 beast! You are more than half-way done now and doing great! Check back next week for Part 5: Making the Lining.
Happy Sewing!
Cristy
Please note, this post contains affiliate links. Please refer to my Disclosures for additional information.
Installing snaps by hand isn’t as hard as it looks! The Double-Cap Spring style snaps are my personal favorite for bag-making and for garments. I’ve tried many different kinds of snaps over the years, including plastic KAM style ones for baby accessories and then Ring Style ones for bags. Out of all the ones I’ve tried, I think these Doubled-Cap Spring snaps are the most forgiving with manual setting tools and produce the BEST results with minimum investment. Check out my video tutorial below to see how easy it really is!!!
Double-Cap snaps – 12.5 mm/20 : These are my preferred size to handle most of my needs and I personally like the Double-Cap for extra strength even though they are slightly more expensive than the single cap style.
Punch Pliers – These are my preferred style with the ability to change hole sizes and punch to either a rubber or metal bed.
Jeweler’s Bench – This tool maybe underrated, but this is actually key in getting a nice firm hardware install
Hammer – Everyone has one at home and with all my bag and garment making, I had to get one specifically for the sewing room so my husband wouldn’t have to keep looking for the one from our toolbox!
Tutorial:
Click into the video above to watch the entire snap installation process. As with anything new you learn, make sure to practice before moving onto your actual process. You’ll get a feel for the swing of the hammer and how much pressure is needed for the posts to attach to either the stud of the socket.
Even though I do own a hardware press along with the right dies for these snaps. many times, I’ll still go the manual route. Sometimes, it’s just a little bit quicker when I just need one or two snaps installed. The application is more forgiving, and that’s what I appreciate versus other snaps which have to be SO perfect to work….ugh….
These snaps are paired correctly going from left to right [Stud Post + Stud] [Socket Cap + socket]
After watching the video, take note of these TIPS as well to help:
With Double-Cap Spring Snaps, the caps can be confusing to figure out. But you will see that only one post can fit through the socket. Make sure you pair those together. The remaining cap will then be paired to the socket
Use a solid work surface like a thick sturdy table
Work at natural waist height – when a project is on the ground, the swing of the hammer is thrown off and can lead to angled application
Again, practice, practice, practice!!!
I hope this helps to alleviate your anxieties around hardware snaps. Once you assemble a few, you’ll be an expert in no time! In just a few weeks, I’ll also share my hardware press details 😉
Enjoy hammering away!
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links which help keep this website running . For my full affiliate Disclosure, click here.
Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! We are now on Part 3: Create the Back Panel. If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:
I like to press the lining of the Pocket inward so that it doesn’t show when you look at it.
Remember that I’m using a treated canvas, so really, I’m finger pressing all of my seams when I mention “pressing.”
The Snaps I use (and also in my hardware kits are 20 ligne / 12.5 mm Double-cap Spring Snaps. However, you can ALWAYS use any kind of snap on hand. This includes: plastic, magnetic, ring, and even sew-in styles!
The Snap was added using a press, but if you need to add them manually, scroll to bottom of this post for resources.
ADD HANDLE BASE
As mentioned before, I am making my version of the Erin Backpack with the Permanent Back Strap Hack, so the end result looks different from the pattern instructions. However, I STILL (yay!) created video to help you visualize these steps if you are sticking to the pattern as written.
If you are following the pattern, you will watch the video from the beginning to about 3:04. Then you can come back around 3:57 for the hardware installation and watch until the end.
If you are following the Sew-In Back Strap Hack, you will watch the video from about 3:57 through until the end of the video. Feel free to watch all of it though for extra learning points 😉
Click into the video about to watch how the Handle base is made and attached to the Back Panel. The Slip Pocket is then attached and basted together to enclose.
Additional Resources
If you need help with any of the hardware installation. Check out the posts below:
I hope you enjoyed Part 3 of the Erin Backpack Sew Along. Catch me back in just a few days for an intensive Part 4 where we coincidentally, also make 4 pockets for the Front Panel.
Happy Sewing!
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links which help keep this website running . For my full affiliate Disclosure, click here.
Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! We are now on Part 2: Making the Strap and Key Fob. If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:
For the Sew Along, I have this great Expedition Dry Oilskin Canvas that is 61″ wide. So, I’m happily skipping steps 9-10 to piece the strap together. Again, since this is a treated canvas, I cannot use heat and fuse woven interfacing to it. At 9 oz in weight, it’s okay on it’s own!
[Steps – ] Click into the video above to watch the entire Strap making process. As you watch, please note the following:
Adding nylon webbing is a great way to add strength to a strap, especially if you cannot interface it (like with laminates and waxed canvas.) I show the option in the video, but do not add it to my project due to the thickness of my fabric already.
If you are worried about bulk at the end of your straps, one of my bag testers recommends this technique –>
Use Fray Check to help seal the ends. I like to add the seam sealant, let it dry and then come back to trim it.
If you need additional help setting Rivets manually, go to this post.
MAKE THE KEY FOB
With the Dry Oilskin canvas being so thick, it would create such a big folded knob relative to the 1/2″ Swivel Clasp. So, for this the sew along, I used the lining fabric instead.
[Steps 18-20] Click into the video above for the entire Key Fob making process.
If you need additional help setting Rivets manually, go to this post.
Hope you are doing well with this short Part 2! Drop any questions you may have in the comments! Now I’ll see you next week for the Erin Sew Along Part 3: Making the Back Panel.
Hugs and Stitches,
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. For my full Disclosures, read here.
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