Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 5: Make the Lining

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now on Part 5: Make the Lining.  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

With this part, we will tackle the entire lining and even assemble it!

Zipper pocket

The interior Welt Zipper Pocket is constructed the same way as the outside one, except without the Zipper Plate.  So, we don’t have to go through all of the steps again.  If you need a fresher, you can head back to Part 4.

With this pocket, there is no basting, just a regular topstitch to secure the zipper to the lining (as shown above.) .

For some more visual interest, you can always add another Zipper Plate or add in some rivets.  I placed one on with side of the zipper opening,  3/8″ from each end AFTER pocket has been closed up.  This helps add a little more security to the pocket lining.

You may have noticed that I added in a branding tag.  This is not apart of the instructions, so I skipped it in the video.  But if you would like to add one in this same spot, I sew the tag after finishing the Welt Zipper Pocket.  The leather stamped tags are from ViVi in Oz.

Slip Pocket, Elastic Pockets and assembly

The rest of the Lining construction and assembly can be found in the video above.  You can view the different sections timestamped as follows:

  • Slip Pocket  (00:10)
  • Elastic Pockets (01:35 )
  • Accessory Strap (04:25)
  • Key Fob (04:58)
  • Assembly (05: 06)

Items to note:

  • You can get extra hardware help by clicking on these posts -> Rivets  -> Spring Snaps
  • May need to adjust the length of elastic based on what type/style you are using.  You want to have enough pulled in so that the Elastic pocket is bunched up enough to equal the length of the Front Lining.
  • DON’T skip the 2nd line of baste stitching for the gathering.  It makes life MUCH easier –especially when trying to gather stiffened fabric from the interfacing.
  • If you would like to take the option of adding rivets to the Elastic Pockets, make sure to NOT punch the holes directly on a seam.
  • Yes, the Front Lining IS suppose to be shorter than the Back Lining.  This takes the width of the zipper into account and incorporates it as part of the backpack’s front wall.

 

Can you taste the finish?  The very last of the Erin Backpack sew along comes later this week, Part 6:  Final Assembly.  I hope you have been enjoying the process.  Don’t forget to use #erinbackpack #erinbackpacksewalong and #loveyousewpatterns on Social Media!  I’m so excited to see your finished bags!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

 

 

Hardware || Install Double-Cap Spring Snaps by Hand

Installing snaps by hand isn’t as hard as it looks! The Double-Cap Spring style snaps are my personal favorite for bag-making and for garments. I’ve tried many different kinds of snaps over the years, including plastic KAM style ones for baby accessories and then Ring Style ones for bags.   Out of all the ones I’ve tried,  I think these Doubled-Cap Spring snaps are the most forgiving with manual setting tools and produce the BEST results with minimum investment.  Check out my video tutorial below to see how easy it really is!!!

I love using these snaps in my patterns like The Tiny Sophia Bag (shown above,) the Megan Bucket Bag and the Erin Backpack.  You can also use these in shirts like my Holly Jumpsuit, and in jackets, like with my Kelly Anorak.

Materials needed:

  • Your project!
  • Double-Cap snaps – 12.5 mm/20 : These are my preferred size to handle most of my needs and I personally like the Double-Cap for extra strength even though they are slightly more expensive than the single cap style.
  • Setting Tool Set (use “633” tools for 12.5 mm snaps) – For the price, I bought this whole set on the off-chance I would need other size tools for future snaps.  They have held up well so far with lots of use
  • Punch Pliers – These are my preferred style with the ability to change hole sizes and punch to either a rubber or metal bed.
  • Jeweler’s Bench – This tool maybe underrated, but this is actually key in getting a nice firm hardware install
  • Hammer – Everyone has one at home and with all my bag and garment making, I had to get one specifically for the sewing room so my husband wouldn’t have to keep looking for the one from our toolbox!

 

Tutorial:

Click into the video above to watch the entire snap installation process.  As with anything new you learn, make sure to practice before moving onto your actual process.  You’ll get a feel for the swing of the hammer and how much pressure is needed for the posts to attach to either the stud of the socket.

Even though I do own a hardware press along with the right dies for these snaps. many times, I’ll still go the manual route.  Sometimes, it’s just  a little bit quicker when I just need one or two snaps installed.  The application is more forgiving, and that’s what I appreciate versus other snaps which have to be SO perfect to work….ugh….

These snaps are paired correctly going from left to right [Stud Post + Stud] [Socket Cap + socket]

After watching the video, take note of these TIPS as well to help:

  • With Double-Cap Spring Snaps, the caps can be confusing to figure out.  But you will see that only one post can fit through the socket.  Make sure you pair those together.  The remaining cap will then be paired to the socket
  • Use a solid work surface like a thick sturdy table
  • Work at natural waist height – when a project is on the ground, the swing of the hammer is thrown off and can lead to angled application
  • Again, practice, practice, practice!!!

 

I hope this helps to alleviate your anxieties around hardware snaps.  Once you assemble a few, you’ll be an expert in no time!  In just a few weeks, I’ll also share my hardware press details 😉

 

Enjoy hammering away!

Cristy

 

 


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