Hardware || Install Double-Cap Spring Snaps by Hand

Installing snaps by hand isn’t as hard as it looks! The Double-Cap Spring style snaps are my personal favorite for bag-making and for garments. I’ve tried many different kinds of snaps over the years, including plastic KAM style ones for baby accessories and then Ring Style ones for bags.   Out of all the ones I’ve tried,  I think these Doubled-Cap Spring snaps are the most forgiving with manual setting tools and produce the BEST results with minimum investment.  Check out my video tutorial below to see how easy it really is!!!

I love using these snaps in my patterns like The Tiny Sophia Bag (shown above,) the Megan Bucket Bag and the Erin Backpack.  You can also use these in shirts like my Holly Jumpsuit, and in jackets, like with my Kelly Anorak.

Materials needed:

  • Your project!
  • Double-Cap snaps – 12.5 mm/20 : These are my preferred size to handle most of my needs and I personally like the Double-Cap for extra strength even though they are slightly more expensive than the single cap style.
  • Setting Tool Set (use “633” tools for 12.5 mm snaps) – For the price, I bought this whole set on the off-chance I would need other size tools for future snaps.  They have held up well so far with lots of use
  • Punch Pliers – These are my preferred style with the ability to change hole sizes and punch to either a rubber or metal bed.
  • Jeweler’s Bench – This tool maybe underrated, but this is actually key in getting a nice firm hardware install
  • Hammer – Everyone has one at home and with all my bag and garment making, I had to get one specifically for the sewing room so my husband wouldn’t have to keep looking for the one from our toolbox!

 

Tutorial:

Click into the video above to watch the entire snap installation process.  As with anything new you learn, make sure to practice before moving onto your actual process.  You’ll get a feel for the swing of the hammer and how much pressure is needed for the posts to attach to either the stud of the socket.

Even though I do own a hardware press along with the right dies for these snaps. many times, I’ll still go the manual route.  Sometimes, it’s just  a little bit quicker when I just need one or two snaps installed.  The application is more forgiving, and that’s what I appreciate versus other snaps which have to be SO perfect to work….ugh….

These snaps are paired correctly going from left to right [Stud Post + Stud] [Socket Cap + socket]

After watching the video, take note of these TIPS as well to help:

  • With Double-Cap Spring Snaps, the caps can be confusing to figure out.  But you will see that only one post can fit through the socket.  Make sure you pair those together.  The remaining cap will then be paired to the socket
  • Use a solid work surface like a thick sturdy table
  • Work at natural waist height – when a project is on the ground, the swing of the hammer is thrown off and can lead to angled application
  • Again, practice, practice, practice!!!

 

I hope this helps to alleviate your anxieties around hardware snaps.  Once you assemble a few, you’ll be an expert in no time!  In just a few weeks, I’ll also share my hardware press details 😉

 

Enjoy hammering away!

Cristy

 

 


This post may contain affiliate links which help keep this website running .  For my full affiliate Disclosure, click here.

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 3: Create the Back Panel


Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now on Part 3: Create the Back Panel.  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

Time to get started!

MAKE THE BACK SLIP POCKET

Notes:

  • I like to press the lining of the Pocket inward so that it doesn’t show when you look at it.
  • Remember that I’m using a treated canvas, so really, I’m finger pressing all of my seams when I  mention “pressing.”
  • The Snaps I use (and also in my hardware kits are 20 ligne / 12.5 mm Double-cap Spring Snaps. However, you can ALWAYS use any kind of snap on hand. This includes: plastic, magnetic, ring, and even sew-in styles!
  • The Snap was added using a press, but if you need to add them manually, scroll to bottom of this post for resources.

 

ADD HANDLE BASE

As mentioned before, I am making my version of the Erin Backpack with the Permanent Back Strap Hack, so the end result looks different from the pattern instructions.  However, I STILL (yay!) created video to help you visualize these steps if you are sticking to the pattern as written.

If you are following the pattern, you will watch the video from the beginning to about 3:04.  Then you can come back around 3:57 for the hardware installation and watch until the end.

If you are following the Sew-In Back Strap Hack, you will watch the video from about 3:57 through until the end of the video.  Feel free to watch all of it though for extra learning points 😉

 

Click into the video about to watch how the Handle base is made and attached to the Back Panel.  The Slip Pocket is then attached and basted together to enclose.

 

Additional Resources

If you need help with any of the hardware installation.  Check out the posts below:

 

I hope you enjoyed Part 3 of the Erin Backpack Sew Along.  Catch me back in just a few days for an intensive Part 4 where we coincidentally, also make 4 pockets for the Front Panel.

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 


This post may contain affiliate links which help keep this website running .  For my full affiliate Disclosure, click here.

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 2: Make the Strap and Key Fob

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now on Part 2: Making the Strap and Key Fob.  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

Now let’s get to it!

MAKE THE STRAP

For the Sew Along, I have this great Expedition Dry Oilskin Canvas that is 61″ wide.  So, I’m happily skipping steps 9-10 to piece the strap together.  Again, since this is a treated canvas, I cannot use heat and fuse woven interfacing to it.  At 9 oz in weight, it’s okay on it’s own!

[Steps – ]  Click into the video above to watch the entire Strap making process.  As you watch, please note the following:

  • Adding nylon webbing is a great way to add strength to a strap, especially if you cannot interface it (like with laminates and waxed canvas.)  I show the option in the video, but do not add it to my project due to the thickness of my fabric already.
  • If you are worried about bulk at the end of your straps, one of my bag testers recommends this technique –>
  • Use Fray Check to help seal the ends.  I like to add the seam sealant, let it dry and then come back to trim it.
  • If you need additional help setting Rivets manually, go to this post.

 

MAKE THE KEY FOB

With the Dry Oilskin canvas being so thick, it would create such a big folded knob relative to the  1/2″ Swivel Clasp.  So, for this the sew along, I used the lining fabric instead.

 

[Steps 18-20] Click into the video above for the entire Key Fob making process.

  • If you need additional help setting Rivets manually, go to this post.

 

Hope you are doing well with this short Part 2!  Drop any questions you may have in the comments!  Now I’ll see you next week for the Erin Sew Along Part 3:  Making the Back Panel.

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 


This post may contain affiliate links.  For my full Disclosures, read here.

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 1: Cutting, Interfacing and Hardware Prep

Welcome to Part 1 of the Erin Sew Along: Cutting, Interfacing and Hardware Prep.  If you have missed out on the previous posts, please read them first before proceeding:

If you have done your pre-work, let’s get started!  Please remember that this Sew Along is SUPPLEMENTAL to the actual pattern instructions.  You will receive extra tips and tricks on the blog, but make sure you read through all pattern steps FIRST!

CUTTING FABRIC

[Step 1] I don’t know about you, but this is probably the most tedious part of the process to me.  With more complicated bags comes a lot more parts and pattern pieces.

  • The Erin Backpack comes with 24 different pattern templates for you to cut out and help keep track of your bag parts with a pin or clip.  Make sure to assemble the PDF pattern by lining up the GRAY lines, but cut your templates on the BLACK.  The patten templates are laid out to minimize the amount of paper used.
  • For all of you who love a rotary cutter and ruler (myself included!) there is also Measure and Mark table as part of the instructions.
  • There is also a flat lay of all the pattern pieces to help you visualize everything that needs to be cut. I like to use the flat-lay to double-check that I have everything needed to get started.

***Please note the only paper template missing is the Strap.  (For a large rectangle, it takes up a lot of paper and after taking a survey of bag-makers, they would rather have the measurements than to waste the paper and so I tend to take this course.)  However, there IS a square placeholder with the templates you can use to help keep track of the fabric!

If you are looking to match fabric designs, it’s best to line everything at the base of the Main and Lining pieces.  The Fronts are slightly shorter than the back pieces to accommodate the zipper width.

For those looking for the hack to add permanent back straps to the Erin, head here for the additional materials.  I will be adding them to my bag, but will still reference the original parts of the bag if you still want the convertible back strap options.

INTERFACING

[Step 2] The majority of the fusing will be to the Lining pieces.   Because of that, I like to do this first and block fuse as much as I can — This is when you interface the fabric first and then go back to cut out the pieces, reducing time spent cutting.  The downside is that you may end up with more fused fabric than what’s needed, but I keep everything to make pouches later on.  You will fuse the following with woven interfacing:

  • Front and Back Lining
  • Top and Bottom Lining
  • Front  Welt Pocket
  • Front Elastic Pockets (but only on the half which faces the inside after being folded)*
  • Pop-put Pocket Main* + Lining
  • Back Slip Pocket Main* + Lining
  • Interior Welt Pocket
  • Interior Slip Pocket
  • Interior Elastic Pockets
  • Key Fob

I am using a treated canvas and per manufacturer’s instructions, I cannot iron it and can only finger-press seams into place.  With the fabric being so heavy at 9 oz, I’m skipping the woven interfacing on the parts marked with an (*).  So if you are using vinyl or a waxed canvas, consider the same changes.  If you are looking more a more structured bag and can’t iron the fabric, then consider a sew-in interfacing instead of the the fusible.  Additionally, If you want to use the Back Slip Pocket to hold a tablet or small laptop, consider adding foam to the main fabric.

[Step 3] When it comes to basting the Main fabric onto the (non-fusible) foam, I like to use a larger piece of foam, baste, and THEN come back to trim it.  If you have never basted before, it is a technique of securing fabric together with thread (either by hand or machine.)  I crank my machine up to the longest stitch length (6mm) and will baste the pieces together.  You will baste:

  • Top + Bottom
  • Back Panel
  • SKIP the Front Panel for now – The Front Welt Pocket needs to be sewn in BEFORE the foam is basted in.

As you baste every several stitches, smooth the fabric outward so it is nice and taut against the foam.

Once finished basting, you can trim the excess foam away from each piece of the bag and set aside.

[Step 4] Now it’s time to grab the Top + Bottom LINING Pieces.  I like to label the firm interfacing to make sure I don’t mix up the pieces since each one will be sewn in differently.  The Bottom firm interfacing is attached with regular stitching whereas the Top is basted in — since the stitching will be removed later for a clean finish.  *If you are using a laminate for the lining, I would skip the basting (You don’t want to create permanent holes in the top lining when we remove stitching later) and either lightly glue the firm interfacing into place or consider permanently sewing it into place like the bottom.

CUTTING ACCENT FABRIC

You should have the following pattern pieces with the accent fabric:

  • Zipper Plate
  • D-Ring Tab
  • Handle Base
  • Rectangle Ring Tab
  • Back Strap Tabs
  • Accessory Strap
  • Handle + optional*
  • Front Strap Tabs

*In the pattern, I cut (2) Handles for more strength.  But you are welcome to make a double-fold or even a Rolled Handle like this one, depending on the thickness of your accent fabric.

With all of the Accent Fabric, I like to use a rotary cutter (or craft knife in tighter spots) and ruler as much as possible to create nice straight lines. But it’s hard to get the same precision for curved lines.

With the Zipper Plate, I’ll use any random round object like a metal washer (my preferred device, but of course, I couldn’t find it for this post..) or a thread spool around my house to use as a guide for my craft knife.  This allows for a more uniform look at the corners.  For the smoothest line, try to cut every curve in one motion and don’t forget to practice first!

Alternatively, if you don’t want to bother with curves and want to make things more simple, you can just cut the zipper plate as a full rectangle and then snip a uniform 45* right triangle off every corner like this Zipper Plate above.

Additionally, for all my zipper plate use, I love the 1/2″ flat blade in this knife kit.  It’s the perfect size to cut into the plate and I love the variety of blade for all my crafting needs.

Once you are finished cutting through all the accent fabric, you can optionally seal the edges with your preferred method.  The faux leather I used as part of the instructions has a felt backing, so it didn’t require any sealing.  However, this cork I’m using for the sew along has a woven fabric backing and I do like to seal.  You can do so by using a seam sealant like Fray Check or using Leather Paint like in this post (with video!)

Prep hardware

[Step 5-8]  Click into the video above for the hardware prep, including how to sew the rings into place. Use a light uniform amount of glue to encase all the rings per instructions.  You want enough to keep the tabs attached, but not so much that it will effect your sewing (needles can stick to the glue and throw off timing.)

Although in Step 7, it mentions to add rivets to the Back Strap Rings, I suggest you wait until the backpack is complete.  This will make it easier to sew the tabs in place and you don’t have to worry about avoiding the rivets with your sewing machine.

 

Phew!  That was a good bit of work just to prep the Erin Backpack.  If you have any questions, please comment below.  Next up, I’ll be post Part 2: Making the Strap and Key Fob, so stay tuned!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 


This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read my Disclosures for all affiliate info.

Erin Backpack Hack || Make Sew-in Backpack Straps

I get it!  Not everyone wants to continually switch out the Erin Backpack straps for the over-the-shoulder/cross-body style.  I also understand that the convertible nature of the backpack strap leads to uneven shifting on the strap as well.  So, if you find yourself wanting the Erin Backpack to have permanent double back straps since that’s how you wear it the most, then this hack is for you!!

TUTORIAL

This tutorial assumes you will still make the strap as drafted in the pattern for over your shoulder and/or cross-body needs.  All materials needed will be IN ADDITION to the original supply list.

Materials Needed:

  • (2) 36″ x 6″ cuts of Main Fabric + Woven Interfacing
  • (2) 1 1/2″ Strap Sliders
  • (2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
  • Lengthen #17 Handle Base to 14 1/2″ x 2″

Material you can omit from original pattern:

  • #19 Rectangle Ring Accent Fabric
  • (1) Rectangle Ring

INSTRUCTIONS:

  • Make straps according to the pattern following Steps #11-12. You will have (2) separate 36″ x 1 1/2″ straps.

  • Click into video above  to add the Slider and a Swivel Clasp to each Strap.  Each Strap will have one raw end which will later be sewn into the handle base.

 

  • Mark the Handle Base using the original template centered on the back, but omitting the Rectangle Ring markings

 

  • With the wrong side of the Handle Base facing up, glue the Handle into place.  If you like the look of the Rolled Handle instead of the flat style in the pattern, you can find the tutorial to make it here.

 

  • With the wrong side of the straps facing up, glue the raw short edges to the outside of each handle, aligning the raw edges. (Please note, I was playing around with which direction the handle should face, so that’s why it’s different in this pic.)

 

  • Now you can flip the base right side facing up and continue at Step #24 of the Erin Backpack pattern.  Remember to keep the straps out of the way as you continue construction for the rest of the Erin Backpack.

 

I hope you enjoy this hack!  If you decide to just use the shoulder strap, these double backpack straps can easily be tucked into the back slip pocket!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy